Late in summer 2017 I had a follower (Ruthann Gray) send me a girl’s dress that is in wonderful condition aside from the few random holes in the skirt and spots on the bodice front. I shared it recently in a Facebook Live video (posted below) going over each detail in the construction. For a closer Read More...
Tag: Pleats & Pleating
A Pin Pleating Tutorial
When I first started making pleated ruffles for my historical ensembles I used straight pins and a ruler. I didn’t know any different. You’ll find a variety of ways to make pleats, but this one worked well for me. And I’ll still use it when it’s the look I’m going for. So when you don’t Read More...
Divide & Conquer Pleating Method
In many historical costuming instances you’ll need to pleat up a length of fabric to fit another. Most commonly it’s a skirt to a waistband. However, this can be anything really. A sleeve cap to a bodice. Length of trim to an overskirt. A curtain to a bonnet neck edge. A lot of times a Read More...
1873 Blackberry Cream Victorian Ensemble
It’s finished!! After over four years I finally have completed my first objective of the day bodice to this incredibly fun ensemble! As in true Victorian spirit, the initial plan was to make the day bodice first then add an evening bodice later. It is the accurate way to get more mileage out of those Read More...
Quit Overthinking Cartridge Pleats
Over the years I’ve seen many, many costumers question and ponder and debate and frustrate themselves over how to calculate cartridge pleats. I get it. It’s pleating. Pleats need to be calculated (or can be, but it’s not absolutely necessary). But cartridge pleats – or gauging as is the 19th century period term – are Read More...
8 Historical Sewing Mistakes You Don’t Know You’re Making
As we worry about how that seam or hem will come out, we also fret over whether we’re doing it right or not. I say, don’t worry about “doing it right.” Sew your project how you see fit. Use a new technique you’ve read up on. Practice – again- that same step you’re always trying Read More...
Progress on the *Orange* 1838 Persimmon Puff Dress
Ok, so orange was probably the last color I would have expected to sew with. Well… at least make an entire dress out of. But then I came across THIS DRESS over at the Met Museum’s website. O.M.G. I was (and still am) in love!!! So of course I have to reproduce it…. Read More...
When is Trim Applied to a Garment?
Do you love trim and passementerie? But of course you do! It’s one of the delicious elements that draw us to 19th C. clothing. I mean, gored skirt panels are rather similar no matter what decade you’re studying, but the *trim* is really what sets styles apart. When we are trying to reproduce historical fashions Read More...