Organdy: The Costumer’s Dream Fabric

It was a distinct turning point in my historical costuming. I thought I was doing pretty good – my costumes were fairly accurate in style, my undergarments were all present, and my fabric selections did not include polyester or nylon. I soaked up all I could on how to make my Victorian clothing better. What I Read More...

Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

That moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. But so many I talked to in that early part of Read More...

All the Flounces! 1850s Skirt Styles

If you love making and wearing flounces (aka deep ruffles) then welcome to 1850s fashion! Stuck between the demure, sweet, simple trends of the 1840s and the billowing hoops and war-torn fashions of the early 1860s, came the frilly, airy, and fanciful 1850s styles.  This decade was all about the Skirt. (Oh, and the sleeves Read More...

Quit Overthinking Cartridge Pleats

Over the years I’ve seen many, many costumers question and ponder and debate and frustrate themselves over how to calculate cartridge pleats. I get it. It’s pleating. Pleats need to be calculated (or can be, but it’s not absolutely necessary). But cartridge pleats – or gauging as is the 19th century period term – are Read More...

Flatlining 19th Century Skirts

  The importance of flatlining skirts cannot be understated. Although, there is a time and place for using underlinings or a lining or both. Or even leaving off linings altogether and simply relying on hem facings and petticoats to keep the silhouette in place. To follow up my post on how to flatline bodices, let’s Read More...

How to Sew Cartridge Pleats

This tutorial is dedicated to Corinne Pleger who taught me the beauty of cartridge pleating in July 2000. Cartridge pleats are eye-catching! Neat little pleats stacked in a row, stitched together and standing at attention. Those little pleats do a heck of job too with getting an enormous amount of skirt fabric into a tiny Read More...