I frequently get questions from our many readers about patterns that call for both an underlining/interlining fabric as well as a full lining fabric for a bodice and even skirts. They range from “So that makes three layers, right?” to “How in the world do I add all those layers of fabric?” and “Won’t all Read More...
Tag: Underlining
Organdy: The Costumer’s Dream Fabric
It was a distinct turning point in my historical costuming. I thought I was doing pretty good – my costumes were fairly accurate in style, my undergarments were all present, and my fabric selections did not include polyester or nylon. I soaked up all I could on how to make my Victorian clothing better. What I Read More...
Podcast 003: Organdy Fabric Basics
Organdy is a beautiful fabric ideal for a variety of historical and vintage garments as well as inner layer/underlining support. Learn about the technical details including the weave, finish variances, and differences from organza and crinoline materials. Jennifer will cover various garments, accessories and trims where organdy is best used with sewing tips that help Read More...
Flatlining 19th Century Sleeves
Flatlining – or the process of mounting an underlining to a fashion fabric – is a hallmark of garment construction in the 19th century. You find it everywhere in all decades of this era – in bodices, skirts, collars, reticules… and also sleeves. Essentially, flatlining in these antique pieces is what we’d call putting in a Read More...
Corset Covers, Chemisettes and Under-Bodices, Oh My!
Recently, one of my Bustle Day Dress Class students asked me what the difference was between chemisettes and corset covers. Both being items worn under the dress proper (and considering they both start with C), I can see how their purpose and function could be mixed up. Let’s clear up the confusion with a few definitions Read More...
Top 10 Sewing Tips
Top 10 sewing tips – Ha! We’ve all heard that one before. As if there could only be 10. As if only 10 mattered. As if your 10 would be the same as mine. You may be an experienced dressmaker and have your own Top 10 best tips. That’s awesome! They may be the same Read More...
How to Flatline a Bodice
Flatlining. No it’s not dying in pursuit of that ultimate dream costume. Neither is it the process of killing your bodice to make it work. Ha! (Although, it feels like it kills us sometimes!) I use the term “flatlining” often when describing this historical sewing technique. It is also called “mounting” and “adding an underlining.” Read More...
How to be a Shield Maiden
You’re standing under the two foot square of shade under the tree, fanning yourself as fast as possible. The cool air you crave is elusive…. Twirling around and around, you laugh and collide with fellow dancers on the packed floor…. If you do any sort of costume events in warm weather or in a ballroom, Read More...