Linings & Underlinings – Do You Really Need Both?

I frequently get questions from our many readers about patterns that call for both an underlining/interlining fabric as well as a full lining fabric for a bodice and even skirts. They range from “So that makes three layers, right?” to “How in the world do I add all those layers of fabric?” and “Won’t all Read More...

How Much Yardage Do I Need??

We’ve all been there. Standing in an aisle of gorgeous fabrics… swooning at the computer screen… gazing lovingly (and with drool at the mouth) at THE.PERFECT.FABRIC for that next dress. Question is… how much to buy?? Will 5 yards be enough? 10? Or do I have to sell a kidney to afford some unmentionable amount Read More...

A Look at a 1860s (or 1870s) Original Girl’s Dress

Late in summer 2017 I had a follower (Ruthann Gray) send me a girl’s dress that is in wonderful condition aside from the few random holes in the skirt and spots on the bodice front. I shared it recently in a Facebook Live video (posted below) going over each detail in the construction. For a closer Read More...

Flatlining 19th Century Sleeves

Flatlining – or the process of mounting an underlining to a fashion fabric – is a hallmark of garment construction in the 19th century. You find it everywhere in all decades of this era – in bodices, skirts, collars, reticules… and also sleeves. Essentially, flatlining in these antique pieces is what we’d call putting in a Read More...

Selecting Color Palettes for Your Historical Costumes

You look fabulous in red. Or purple may make your heart sing. But green is calling to you recently. In all the colors we have to play with in creating our historical costumes, how do you decide what to use? What shades are complimentary to each other? Will they “look period”? And how do you Read More...

Constructing a Victorian Bustle Dress

It’s that moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. The gorgeousness of the 1870s & 1880s called me strongly. Read More...