Linings & Underlinings – Do You Really Need Both?

I frequently get questions from our many readers about patterns that call for both an underlining/interlining fabric as well as a full lining fabric for a bodice and even skirts. They range from “So that makes three layers, right?” to “How in the world do I add all those layers of fabric?” and “Won’t all Read More...

Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

That moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. But so many I talked to in that early part of Read More...

1890s Plastrons – Is that a Victorian Bib?

“Plastron” – say what?? It sounds so formal. Or rather gladiator. I mean, it’s traditionally the chest and sleeve pad worn by fencers. So how do they connect into Victorian fashion? (Hint: they aren’t chemisettes but are related in being Victorian accessories.) As with all things Late Victorian with feminine frou-frou and gorgeousness, you’ll come Read More...

Constructing a Victorian Bustle Dress

It’s that moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. The gorgeousness of the 1870s & 1880s called me strongly. Read More...

Corset Covers, Chemisettes and Under-Bodices, Oh My!

Recently, one of my Bustle Day Dress Class students asked me what the difference was between chemisettes and corset covers. Both being items worn under the dress proper (and considering they both start with C), I can see how their purpose and function could be mixed up. Let’s clear up the confusion with a few definitions Read More...

Patterns for New Costumers

First and foremost it’s all about the silhouette of the time period you want to achieve. You build the undergarments first then all the pretty things that go on top. But as a beginner you’re starting from ground zero. You have nothing…. Except maybe a bonnet or a petticoat or your grandmother’s fur jacket. And Read More...