This tutorial is dedicated to Corinne Pleger who taught me the beauty of cartridge pleating in July 2000. Cartridge pleats are eye-catching! Neat little pleats stacked in a row, stitched together and standing at attention. Those little pleats do a heck of job too with getting an enormous amount of skirt fabric into a tiny Read More...
Tag: Pleats & Pleating
5 Tips to Keep Your Cartridge Pleats from Looking Like Gathers
I hate cartridge pleats! Box pleats, fine! Knife pleats, piece of cake, but gauging? Looks like I gathered it & slapped it on. What am I doing wrong? ~ Sylvia Shope Byers Sylvia’s frustration was pouring through her Facebook message. “I’m trying to make them small and lovely, but I might be making them too Read More...
18 Simple Steps for a Dog Leg Closure on Your Mid-Victorian Dress
Perhaps you’re putting together a new summer dress. Or maybe it’s a new work dress for camp. All you know is that one piece dresses in the 1850s and 1860s had the bodice and skirt attached together. Then there is something about that closure that looks funny and seems daunting…. I mean, you could easily Read More...
Figuring Out How To Do Pleats on the Back of a Bustle Bodice
Lately I’ve had fellow costumers ask me about those deep pleats you see on the back of 1870s and 1880s bodices. Those gorgeous fluffy pleats tucked into crisp folds floating above the puffed up bustle. The pattern pieces don’t seem too crazy – a little jaunt out about 90 degrees from the seam then straight Read More...
Techniques for Easier Pleating in 19th Century Costuming
Have you noticed all the pleating in historical clothing? You can find various pleats on bodices, sleeves, jackets, dresses, skirts, waistbands, undergarments, petticoats, coats, cloaks, trims and so many other articles. Taking the time to put a pleated element into your 19th Century costume can take it from good to jazzy! Read More...
Reproducing a Late 1830s Pleated Sleeve
One of the most fun projects that I’ve had the chance to bring to life is a reproduction of a late 1830s dress held at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Having sewn 1830s garments before, the bodice and skirt seemed rather easy to me. But the sleeves were where the fun began. Besides the museum Read More...
Blackberry Cream for Dinner
The 1873 dress turned out exceptionally yummy. The poufy-ness. The gorgeous heliotrope/wisteria color. The kazillion yards of ruching…. It debuted at the Gala at Costume College 2011 and couldn’t have found a happier setting. Here are a few more photos and notes on the making of this delicious piece. Read More...
Just Keep Ruching, Ruching, Ruching…. The 1873 Blackberry Cream Dress
It’s not exactly swimming but I feel I’ve been drowning under miles of lavender taffeta. The 1873 purple gown is made of awesome ruched panels that are glorious in all their puffiness. You’d think running a few rows of basting stitches then pulling them up and sewing down to a base wouldn’t be all that hard. Hard, Read More...