In late summer 2016 Lauren Stowell, creator of American Duchess, announced that plans were in the works for her and her new assistant, Abby Cox, to publish a book on sewing 18th century garments. Whoo-hoo!! The shouts were audible from her friends and followers. Since I focus primarily on 19th century sewing but have wanted Read More...
Tag: Hand Sewing
Seam Finishes for 19th Century Garments
If you’re like me, as you sew up a garment you wonder how you’ll finish the raw edges of the seams. You know I cheat on nearly all my historical projects by serging the exposed raw edges. But what if you don’t have a serger? Or don’t want to use something so modern as a zig-zag Read More...
Fabric Piecing
So you only bought seven yards. You need eight. Of course. Because you didn’t check the yardage listing before you went shopping or the store only had the seven. But you’re determined to make the dress anyway…. When you’re a bit short on fabric, the [historically accurate] method of Making It Work is to piece the Read More...
Applying Hook & Eye Tape
Yay! You’ve just finished the bodice proper but now you are faced with hand sewing on a dozen little hooks and corresponding eyes so you can actually close the bodice. Boo… At this point many costumers let the garment sit. Not that it needs a time out, but that they are simply not looking forward Read More...
Waist Tape Wrangling, or the Unseen Bodice Support
The inside of antique bodices. If you sew historical costumes you know THAT is what you want when you research. How did they do it? Where and how is the boning put in? What is that underlining fabric? Any chance we get we study existing bodices from our favorite era. If we want to produce Read More...
Tips for Easier Seam Ripping
If you sew you rip. Period. No “Oh, I won’t make any mistakes” or “If I sew a seam wrong I simply cut out a new piece.” Yeah… that’s a bit ridiculous. Everyone knows you use a handy-dandy seam ripper (or tiny scissors) to pull out each little stitch. But do you know the easier Read More...
Take Your Victorian Dressmaking to the Next Level
Being creative creatures we are always striving to better ourselves and our work. Of course, there are always those quick projects where we just want to get it done and ready for the event. Those we simply “cut & paste” using the supplies and abilities we’ve developed over time. But then as I was sewing Read More...
How to Sew Cartridge Pleats
This tutorial is dedicated to Corinne Pleger who taught me the beauty of cartridge pleating in July 2000. Cartridge pleats are eye-catching! Neat little pleats stacked in a row, stitched together and standing at attention. Those little pleats do a heck of job too with getting an enormous amount of skirt fabric into a tiny Read More...