Fitting. Some people can figure it out like that – ‘snap’. Whoo-hoo! Good for them. (It IS one of the biggest mistakes costumers make and getting it right is like Devonshire cream! Divine.) 🙂
The rest of us have to struggle through each mockup as if we were climbing the Cliffs of Insanity with dental floss. Fortunately the Shrieking Eels are at bay and we can proceed with confidence.
To sustain you as you go, I’ve put together a video with a few helpful tips on how I go about fitting a bodice to my own figure, all alone, without the help of a sewing room friend.
(This video views best in Chrome or Firefox browsers. Let the video fully buffer (load) before playing for best viewing.)
In addition to these basic instructions, I find this list of fitting tips and methods extremely useful.
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Do you find yourself fitting bodices by yourself on your own figure? Have any special tricks you’ve discovered over the years that you do every time?
Bonjour Jennifer,
Une question: la couture d’épaule est basculée vers l’arrière comme on le voit dans beaucoup de gravures d’époque. Quelle différence/intérêt par rapport à la couture épaule actuelle?
Merci
Dominique from Belgium
The seam falling to the back of the shoulder is to create a bias edge on that shoulder seam. This helps the fabric mould around the shoulder, giving a tighter fit.
La couture tombant à l’arrière de l’épaule vise à créer un bord en biais sur cette couture d’épaule. Cela aide le tissu à se mouler autour de l’épaule, donnant un ajustement plus serré.
How do you make sure that your corset is always tightened the same amount? If a bodice is that closely fitted, doesn’t that add to the fitting issues?
Yes it can if you don’t pay attention. One thing is to make a note of your bust, waist (and hip) measurements while in your corset for the first fitting. Each time you fit another mockup or wear the final bodice take measures again to insure you are at the “original” size. Here’s my post on ease to help you build that into your final bodice to allow for (very) minor changes.
I needed this refresher. Now that I’m turning 30, I’ve found my body is really changing.
Loved this little vid of inspiration and knowledge. TY.
I find my tape measure is useful for positioning my front darts. I throw it over my shoulder (and pin it in place at shoulder) then let it fall naturally over my bust prominence. It falls in a line that follows my shape. I hold it at hem edge of bodice to keep it straight and draw a line using it as a guide. It’s useful for the back as well, if you can get your arms round and work using a mirror.
This cries out for a dress form, does it not? One of those that can be adjusted?
I have a duct tape double dress form but rarely do bodice fittings on it. Although, if you happen to have one that fits your corseted measurements along with back height and shoulder width then a dress form can really help out. A dress form is valuable sewing equipment!
Do you use your mock up pieces (after they have been tweaked and fitted) as the pattern pieces for the good fabric?
No, never. I always transfer all my marks back to the paper pattern. Because 1) the mockup stretches during fitting (yes, it does happen), and 2) I may want to make that same pattern again in the future and will need to start back with good paper that is properly marked. (This partially comes from my fashion design school training.)
As always, a wonderful & helpful video! One more tool that I’ve recently added to my fitting toolkit is a hand mirror. When I’m trying to see how the back of my bodice looks, its much easier to stand up before my full-length mirror and use a hand mirror to see how I’m doing with the bodice back, rather than to try to look over my shoulder. Thanks Jennifer!
Oh what a lovely idea! Thanks so much! I hope everyone reaches the top safely, I think Inigo just threw down the rope! LOL
Happy sewing, everyone!
Ruth
hehe 🙂
Just what I have been wanting. I admit I am very intimidated by fittings and I have no idea why. But this has helped me to see what I’m looking for and how to go about fixing it. Thank you so much!
I also draw the grain line in permanent marker on all of the muslin pieces before I baste them to one another. This ensures that even after I’ve made fitting alterations or re-drawn seam lines I’ve still got the correct grain when I move on to the next step of either re-fitting or cutting my fashion fabric. For a Victorian bodice front, such as when I divide it to create a plastron, I first draw one grain line near the center front seam and a second one closer to the side seam but still beyond the dart lines, thus maintaining the correct grain line on both new pieces. I also mark the pattern’s natural waist on each piece of muslin, and then pin those markings to the corset at my waist line. I am more short-waisted than just about any commercial pattern, so this allows me to remove excess length from just the right spot for the very best fit.
wonderful video! I too do my fittings by myself and it can be very frustrating. I had to do 8 mockups just to complete a bodice. I am new at fitting but have learned so much. jennifer, I use your booklets and website info all the time. thanks again.
Dear Jennifer,
How timely! An event looms next weekend and last fall’s 1869-1870 bodice still needs tweaks. Anchoring, splitting the bodice into top and bottom — wow, such useful methods.
Here’s a tip that I came up with recently. When photographing yourself consider taking the pictures hands-free so that you don’t create wrinkles by raising your arms to shoot the photos. First, attach your camera to a tripod or even a stack of books, and test the height to make sure it will take a straight-on picture of your bodice when you stand in front of the camera. Then, set your camera to take a picture after several seconds’ delay; many cameras these days have this function. I find the 10-second delay is perfect because it gives me time to position myself before the camera shoots.
Thanks kindly,
Natalie
I honestly need to start doing more tripod shots. Photos help immensely but the timer would definitely allow you time to “get into position” and adjust. Great idea!
Jennifer,
Nice video- would have been more helpful with subtitles or a transcript… Not everyone who does costuming can hear.
Good job tho!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. As always,the very best in tutorials from the MOST OUTSTANDING 19th century historical fashion designer and tutor.
Regards,
Richard.
Very, very, very useful, thank you!