Save the original pattern!
It is generally suggested in the sewing world that you copy that precious, new paper pattern you recently received and are getting ready to sew with. This is so you keep the original intact. I would agree – about 80% of the time.
Most of the time I’ll only copy my expensive historical or indie printed patterns. I don’t want to lose the original sizing and grading. They cost good money, right?!
For those tissue patterns from the Big 4 (Simplicity, Butterick, McCall’s and Vogue) I’ll just cut straight into them. I’ll draw new cut lines first, however, making my own grade between the sizes I need. (Remember to iron them afterwards!)
And for PDF patterns I can easily go back and print the pattern (or size) again. So I don’t worry about tracing these after I’ve taped the pages together.
So when you’re ready to start your pattern work – especially for a historical garment – I highly recommend you trace out your pattern size and use that as your working copy.
If you get a bad pattern or it’s not making sense and you have to do several mockups you’ve got your original pattern to refer back to or simply start over with. (So handy!)
Paper for Tracing Patterns
You’ll get a lot of varying answers when you talk to sewers and costumers about what they use to copy their purchased paper patterns.
Personally I use presentation (or easel) pad paper that comes about 28” x 32” (give or take). You can find it at office and school supply stores and lasts a long time. I’ve used this paper for years and love it. It’s lighter than copy paper and see-through enough to trace. It is durable, too, to get me through lots of alterations and drafting.
I’ve tried the pads with the post-it sticky on the back so it stays put on my table – it works ok but you lose the top 3” with the sticky. I’d rather have the full sheet available.
Oh, and be VERY careful with the 1″ marked pad paper. I’ve noticed it was not printed at a true one inch and had to use the reverse side.
Lots of people use heavy interfacing (sew-in) or Swedish Tracing Paper with good luck.
Paper Options:
- Large presentation pads
- Heavy interfacing (sew-in) like Pellon brand Easy Pattern
- Other 1” grid or blue line interfacing
- Swedish Tracing Paper from WAWAK or Amazon
- Large tracing paper tablets
- Medical paper (narrow rolls but quite durable)
- Blue Dot paper or other sewing/drafting industry paper
- Regular good quality tissue paper
- Craft or butcher paper
- Unprinted newsprint paper
- Unusual: clear vinyl, plastic sheeting, or a shower curtain (with Sharpie pen)
- Off-beat: Christmas/holiday wrapping paper with 1” grid on the back
What is your favorite paper for tracing patterns?
Links to Amazon are under an affiliate account.
i use construction undermount paper when i am drafting patterns. this is the paper that is put under wooden floors as a vapor barrier.
I use Tracing Paper rolls from the art supply store. They come in 36″ width (and small) 50 yards long. Here’s a link to an example.
I also like using pellon
Similar to the presentation pad, I have found the large newsprint paper sketch pads to be handy. Most craft stores carry them and they tend to be cheap, around $6 or so. I also use painter’s blue tape to join two or more pages together for large pattern pieces. Usually two sheets will work for most tracing projects.
I use Swedish tracing paper as I make costumes for our community theatre so often need to use a pattern several times and in different sizes, and also adapt for variations in size. It is very useful for old fragile patterns too.
Thank you for your great tips. I enjoys your posts very much.
I buy non-woven iron-on and one-inch grid interfacing in large amounts. They are pretty transparant. I when cut out my tissue patterns I fuse them to the iron-on. I trace my other patterns onto the grid version. This makes aligning my grain lines and other important notes easy to re-use. while preserving the original.
I use medical table cover paper. Like the comments before, it comes on a roll, is fairly transparent, and is fairly sturdy, and is cheap.
I also love the Swedish Tracing Paper, which I use when I might want to sew part of it together first to see how something might fit before I move on. Or, if I want to save the traced pattern to use often.
Hi Jennifer,
I was wondering what you think about polyester petticoats. I found the most gorgeous polyester eyelet “cotton” fabric that I just need to make into an 1860s petticoat! I am just scared that with all the layers that should be 100% cotton, the polyester will make me overheated since it doesn’t breathe as well as a natural fiber would. I was wondering what you think is the best thing to do in the situation. Are you against polyester petticoats or not? From a historical standpoint, they are a big no, no but I’m okay with making some non-historical decisions for the undergarments as long as the dress and it’s fabric, trim, cut and, silhouette is historically accurate.
I’ve made poly/cotton blend petticoats and they are just fine. Try to find a blend at least 60% cotton and that will help with the heat issue. I would NOT recommend or wear a 100% poly petticoat though. And if you have a 100% cotton petticoat under and even one over the poly/cotton one you’ll still keep cool. What about using the eyelet as a deep flounce on the bottom of a petticoat made from 100% cotton?
Hi Jennifer,
That sounds like a wonderful idea! I never thought about using the fabric as a deep flounce. Thanks again for all the help and your wonderful blog.
I’ve gotten out of the habit of using the originals. Mainly as there are three females in the house I don’t know what sizes will be needed when. If the patterns are from the “big four” I wait till they go on sale at joanns for i between $1-$2 and buy all the sizes for the pattern I’m purchasing. I also have a running list that I carry for patterns that I’ve noted for future use and will buy them at that point. And I always trace the patterns out using the Pelion tracing paper, I love it since I can pin over and over and it doesn’t doesn’t tear easily and using pins doesn’t put the holes in it everywhere. The last place I bought it at was online through Walmart and it was much cheaper per yard for a 25 yard bolt I believe it was.. and it was about 30$. For me it’s the tissue paper used for the patterns that is a pain. I’ve got cats who believe that any flat place is theirs to lay on, and if there is fabric/ paper laying on it even better. I’ve had them tear straight through patterns as I’m in the process of cutting them out. So now I don’t even bother to but them out of the sheet. I trace them out and refold them putting them back into the same packaging. The new pieces I’ve cut go into a folder labeled with pattern number size and version.. it may take more time but for me it’s worth it.
My go to for tracing my patterns is good old freezer paper from the grocery section of Walmart! The roll lasts me a long time and the best part is I don’t have to use pins for cutting out. You just iron the pieces to the fabric, cut, then peel them off and reuse them the same way the next time. 🙂
I use lunch wrap to trace my patterns. I make sure to get the really cheap stuff that doesn’t have any glossy finishes. It’s only 30cm wide, but it’s really cheap and easy enough to tape together.
I use plastic drop cloth from Walmart. it comes in different thicknesses and I prefer the 7mm. it’s sturdy enough to make multiple costumes and I can get quite a few pattern copies out of 1 roll
The fact that it’s clear makes it perfect for tracing.
I use freezer paper.
I’ve been using medical exam paper for my patterns for years. I just tape 2 or 3 widths together if I need something wider but since it comes on a roll, it’s great for really long pieces like skirts with trains. It is sheer enough for tracing and durable enough for multiple pencil markings for alterations. And it is cheap!
I recently found the Pellon Easy Pattern on clearance at Walmart and bought about 6 yards. Came in super handy when I had to make costumes from a Folkwear pattern in 3 different sizes…I traced over the original with a sharpie and it bled through onto the pellon easily. Then, the Pellon holds on to your fabric and you don’t have to use a lot of pins or weights. It also has a 1″ dot grid, which so far I have only used to mark the straight-of-grain.. Absolutely love it!
Everything I read from this site is so Montessori! Being a Montessori teacher, I adore the site and all the ideas!!!
I have no experience with Montessori teaching but I’ll take it as a compliment! Thanks for reading! 🙂
This is so timely! I just ran out of tracing paper and was shopping for more. I was gobsmacked when I saw the price on Fabricland’s roll: $60.
For paper? Really? I figured there had to be a cheaper option. So I’ll be trying various thingss.
First try will be a roll of thin tablecloth plastic that I picked up at the dollar store. Yes, it will be a pain to draw with a sharpie, but at least the width is good.
My main concern is whether it will stretch or be too static-y.
Time will tell.
I buy the rolls of thin paper that is used on the exam table at doctor’s offices. You can get it at hospital supply houses and it works great.
At the historical village I volunteer at, we found that the paper used for aisle wedding runners works fantastic for tracing fashion patterns (plus we generally got it for free when the brides left them in our historical chapel after their wedding)!!
That’s a great idea!