Quit Overthinking Cartridge Pleats

Over the years I’ve seen many, many costumers question and ponder and debate and frustrate themselves over how to calculate cartridge pleats. I get it. It’s pleating. Pleats need to be calculated (or can be, but it’s not absolutely necessary). But cartridge pleats – or gauging as is the 19th century period term – are Read More...

Van Dyke Points for a 1830s Dress

“Please tell us how you made those little points!” – This was the general request when I posted the above photo on the Facebook page showing my dressmaking progress on the 1838 Persimmon Puff dress. Now, I have been calling them “teeth” but after some research and useful suggestions from my followers they are van Read More...

Pintucks – the Old Fashioned Way

  Pintucks! So gloriously tiny! So delicate! So straight & even… or not. Pintucks have a charm about them. They call to us because they signify something regal or heavenly. They appear aloof and untouchable. The beauty they add to Victorian petticoats and Edwardian chemises elevate such tantalizing garments. So as dressmakers from another time, Read More...

Finishing Your Victorian Skirts with a Hidden Placket Opening

Ever make a skirt where you sew up all the side seams – easy, right? – then you have to figure out what to do with the opening? (Hopefully you left an opening in one of the side seams. 🙂 ) It’s not always as simple as folding the raw edges to the inside and Read More...