Figuring Out How To Do Pleats on the Back of a Bustle Bodice

Lately I’ve had fellow costumers ask me about those deep pleats you see on the back of 1870s and 1880s bodices. Those gorgeous fluffy pleats tucked into crisp folds floating above the puffed up bustle. The pattern pieces don’t seem too crazy – a little jaunt out about 90 degrees from the seam then straight Read More...

Techniques for Easier Pleating in 19th Century Costuming

Have you noticed all the pleating in historical clothing? You can find various pleats on bodices, sleeves, jackets, dresses, skirts, waistbands, undergarments, petticoats, coats, cloaks, trims and so many other articles. Taking the time to put a pleated element into your 19th Century costume can take it from good to jazzy! Read More...

3 Tips to Prevent the Lampshade Hoopskirt

Successful historical costuming begins with the silhouette (among other things). When the dress is “just not right,” take a look at how it appears. Sometimes the proportions are off. Sometimes the undergarments hang funny. Other times it’s simply the support shape the entire costume is built on. Reproduction hoop skirts from the Mid-Victorian era, the Read More...

Searching for Historical Supplies from Chain Fabric Stores

It seems like every historical costumer’s journey to a closet full of pretty things to wear always includes a trip… or two… or three… to the local fabric store. We inevitably find ourselves on the quick run to grab thread, hook & eyes or even ribbon. But for so many of us (and yes, I Read More...

Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers

If you’re at all like most historical costumers, you tend to focus on the main part of a new costume – the dress. I know I do. Sure, you give a thought to the corset; maybe even make a new one which we know is the substance for a well-presented silhouette. Then you follow with Read More...

Reproducing a Late 1830s Pleated Sleeve

One of the most fun projects that I’ve had the chance to bring to life is a reproduction of a late 1830s dress held at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Having sewn 1830s garments before, the bodice and skirt seemed rather easy to me. But the sleeves were where the fun began. Besides the museum Read More...