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The Golden Age of Hollywood: 1930-1955 It was another spectacular year at Costume College! New friends were made, classes taken, sleep lost, stitches made, food eaten, Time Warp dancing happened and all the other wonderful happenings at this can’t miss event weekend. A huge thank you to the committee and to my friend, Becca Metzger, Read More...
Deciphering Sleeve Styles of the Regency
Fashionable dress in the Regency years (1795-1820) is full of uncomplicated styles. Although the bodices and skirts are relatively simple to begin with, dressmakers give their own take on basic forms like with a cross-over bodice or perhaps an overskirt. But what’s truly an area of design here is in the sleeves. I mean, how Read More...
Boning in Bustle Bodices
It wasn’t only the corsets in the late 19th Century that had boning in them. No, women’s bodices did too. You might be thinking: Why? Well, corset boning helps hold the body in a fashionable silhouette, whereas boning in a bodice holds the bodice in place. The two garments each have their place for a Read More...
5 Tips to Keep Your Cartridge Pleats from Looking Like Gathers
I hate cartridge pleats! Box pleats, fine! Knife pleats, piece of cake, but gauging? Looks like I gathered it & slapped it on. What am I doing wrong? ~ Sylvia Shope Byers Sylvia’s frustration was pouring through her Facebook message. “I’m trying to make them small and lovely, but I might be making them too Read More...
The 1905 Bodice Mockup in Real Fabric
I loved this pattern the first time I laid eyes on it. How could you not?! It’s an original McCall’s #9322 that I picked up from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library years ago at one Costume College. Of course, it’s only a copy of the original that I’m sure the VPLL handled quite carefully to Read More...
How to Deal With Too Much Width in Your Sleeve Cap
Sleeves can be one of the most frustrating elements of a bodice. The pattern can be too long, they hang funny and there is this struggle with getting them set into the armhole and still look nice. Many times a sleeve has to be enlarged in width to fit a larger bicep measurement (a very Read More...
Points to Keep Your Darts on Target
Darts. Those funny shaped elongated triangles that help mold a flat piece of fabric to the body. Once our Regency ancestors learned how to use them properly, we didn’t look back. The 19th Century is filled with darts in garments. Darts may seem like a standard construction element, but their specific placement and manner of Read More...
Why Sewing Trim to The Back of a Hem is a Good Thing
A certain look is produced when trim, such as lace, fringe or a ruffle, is tacked to the hem of a skirt. The basic thought is to first finish the hem (by hand or machine). Then sew on the lace on top. I did this method for many years and many costumes. But then I Read More...