I loved this pattern the first time I laid eyes on it. How could you not?! It’s an original McCall’s #9322 that I picked up from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library years ago at one Costume College. Of course, it’s only a copy of the original that I’m sure the VPLL handled quite carefully to make for-sale copies.
Being that this was my first time using an original period pattern I KNEW more than one fitting mockup would be made. I mean, since when does a pattern drafted to fit a woman in circa 1905 fit a 21st C. woman?
The first fitting was of the lining only. A simple 2-dart bodice front, back, side back and side pieces. Surprisingly, the size 36 bust fit well for “right out of the box.” I made my adjustments and was ready for a second fitting.
This time it would be a full mockup – lining, outer fabric and both sleeves.
Honestly, I really wanted to just skip the second fitting. (The Lazy Dressmaker…) My instincts told me it would be ok to simply cut out my final fabric. But I know better….
A mockup is truly a must when even a little doubt exists.
Since I was going for a full-on mockup, I decided to cut into $25/yd imported Swiss batiste…. Yeah. I did.
Heck! If it worked (as my mad patterning skills were telling me) I’d have a cute white Edwardian bodice.
See…
The skirt here is out of yellow & white striped seersucker from the new Truly Victorian 1903 Trumpet Skirt pattern. The belt was furiously patterned based off of one in Jean Hunnisett’s book and cut from tan twill.
But the bodice! This mockup really DID turn out cute, and oh so wearable. 🙂
The front has the low bosom puff of the period that merely gathers over the well-fitted lining.
The hem is drawn in with three rows of shirring (tight gathers). As snug as they are, I still stroked them for an even look before stitching down each row to the lining.
The back was a bit too short. (That’s why you do mockups so you’ll know where to alter!) But it doesn’t mean this mockup out of really expensive fabric is a waste. No. That’s where a period belt comes in – to hide it. 🙂
The extra back width is taken in by shirring again at the waist and by 3/8″ tucks at the neckline.
The lining is closed by hook & eye tape – a period method – right at center back. The fashion fabric will overlap and cover it. I’m thinking of only a few hooks & thread bars to keep it shut.
Would you believe the sleeves are unaltered from the original pattern? The puff parts at least. I copied the outer puff and under puff sections verbatim while I altered the sleeve lining pieces to fit my arm.
The under puff folds over and is topstitched onto the outer puff. I really had to spend time understanding this technique and also HOW to actually achieve it.
You can see the under puff pattern has a band that wraps around the arm as it secures the puff gathering too.
The alterations consisted of lengthening the center back an inch and taking in the lining darts as they weren’t as tight to the body over all my Edwardian undergarment layers as they should be.
Overall I’m extremely pleased with how my expensive mockup in “real fabric” turned out. It’s cute! Well… it will be once I finish the neckline and hem then trim the whole thing out in delicate lace. 🙂
UPDATE – The final version (click for full post):
Have you ever sewn a mockup in “real fabric”? Did it turn out well enough for you to wear it?
I have a pattern that my Great-Grandmother purchased in 1905. The label is written as
“French A La Mode”. The new 20th century
Taylor System
Perfected Jan. 1, 1905
Patent pending
Morris Bros.
Inventors and proprietors
Western branch. Price $5.00. I have made the dress about 30 years ago, but the instructions were lost in a house fire. Could I please have a copy of your instructions, if yes email me and I’ll give my address. Thx
Carol
Being an original pattern the instructions are VERY minimal. The publishers assumed contemporary dressmakers knew what they were doing. So unfortunately, I don’t really have instructions, per se, for this bodice.
Thank you for getting back to me. The pictures on the pattern are very similar to what is pictured at the top of your page, that is why I asked! Do you know of any on line sights that might has some info, it’s the sleeves I’m having questions about.
Thanks again. And your dress is very nice! Carol
The sleeves are cut with a puff and attached strap/band. The sleeve seam was sewn and the bottom edge gathered up to fit the band part. I ended up hand tacking the band to finish and the lining is also hand whipped on the inside to finish. Here’s more of the finished dress: https://historicalsewing.com/1905-lemon-chiffon-dress
It’s not quite the same thing, but I think an interesting way to practise making button-up dress shirts would be to make pajama tops. They can have collars and cuffs and button lapels and even pockets just like dress shirts, but if you don’t get it quite right, it’s not as big a deal, because most people don’t wear pajamas outside of their own homes, so nobody will see it. You would still need to practise a bit with a material similar to the intended dress shirt in case it has any sewing quirks, such as fraying easily or a tendency to warp when ironed at certain heats, but you could get a lot of experience with the pattern this way before ever cutting into an expensive bolt of cloth.
I’ve never had a mockup turn out to be usable in itself (although sometimes it turns out to be the underlining), but one of our family stories is that when my grandmother made my aunt’s prom dress mockup, my aunt liked it better than the “real” fabric they’d chosen, and that became her real dress.
Hi Jennifer. Love your blog. You are so inspiring. Thank you for all the pictures and goodies/info. Just today, the McCall Pattern company put up my newest design: (it’s a Butterick) B#5970. Thought possibly you’d like to see it. I’m very happy with the photos of the gowns. The hat is so pretty. The process is long with getting the design from me to the photographers, to the pattern maker -to the catalog! And I honestly didn’t remember the hat being so pretty! I love the turn of the century fashions. Hope you like this design too.
Best regards, Nancy
Ooh, fabulous Nancy! Edwardian is so lovely, and I can’t wait to make more dresses from this era. Thanks for your newest design!
very, very nice! Thank you for sharing. I love this era.
Nancy Farris-Thee’
copyright is 100 years plus the life of the person. Doens’t matter if shes in business or not. Copying it is intellectual theft.
You would needt o contact her and ask for permission in writing– otherwise, you could be sued.
Big kudos to you! It looks fantastic!
Some old patterns make up just wonderfully and some are so crazy strange that I’ve basically had to redraft them. Glad this one is a goodie- and hurrah for that GORGEOUS wearable muslin. Swiss batiste for the win!
We found out VPLL no longer has that pattern, so might you think of copying it for us poor little things? /\
I also hear VPLL was closing. 🙁 The pattern IS out of print so I don’t think it’ll be a copyright issue but I’ll have to check anyway. My copy is one size – Bust 36. Although I did have to tweak it a bit and re-write the instructions.
Hi Jennifer, you heard right Janyce is closing unless she can find someone to purchase the shop from her. If you are allowed to copy the pattern I would dearly love a copy as well. And would be willing to pay for the cost to reproduce it and postage. 😀 I love the silhouette its so lovely on you. 😀
~Elizabeth
Thanks Elizabeth. It’s sad to hear VPLL going away; it was a fabulous resource. I will definitely be tossing around the idea of reproducing the pattern. If it comes to fruition it would be available as a full size pattern with complete instructions. 🙂
Actually she supposedly found someone to take it on… At one point i was trying to be that person.. but she said she found someone else that was a better personality fit… soo you should be able to ask her to print up more copies of the pattern…
I often sew mockups in “real fabric”, but not expensive fabric. My feeling is that even a mock up takes time, and it should be wearable. If not by me, by someone (they can always be donated or sold. )
If I do the pattern measuring and alterations well, the mock up should fit well.
Also, there are times I can buy/find “fashion” fabric for less than the cost of muslin, and mock ups should also be in fabric with a similar hand as the final fabric, and muslin won’t always work there.