Sleeve Shifts of the 1890s

Fashion doesn’t change overnight. There’s a subtle movement when a new thought is presented. The idea is taken to the full extreme over a period of a few years. Then it seems to be discarded quickly; put on the shelf and forgotten. Another new idea is presented and we start the cycle again. This path Read More...

1873 Blackberry Cream Victorian Ensemble

It’s finished!! After over four years I finally have completed my first objective of the day bodice to this incredibly fun ensemble! As in true Victorian spirit, the initial plan was to make the day bodice first then add an evening bodice later. It is the accurate way to get more mileage out of those Read More...

Book Review: Regency Women’s Dress

This book, Regency Women’s Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830 by Cassidy Percoco, had been on my radar for a couple months after first stumbling upon it on Amazon last August. I waited for the release date of October 1st only to have it appear as “out of stock.” Sigh…. So when it was available again Read More...

Quit Overthinking Cartridge Pleats

Over the years I’ve seen many, many costumers question and ponder and debate and frustrate themselves over how to calculate cartridge pleats. I get it. It’s pleating. Pleats need to be calculated (or can be, but it’s not absolutely necessary). But cartridge pleats – or gauging as is the 19th century period term – are Read More...