I loved this pattern the first time I laid eyes on it. How could you not?! It’s an original McCall’s #9322 that I picked up from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library years ago at one Costume College. Of course, it’s only a copy of the original that I’m sure the VPLL handled quite carefully to make for-sale copies.
Being that this was my first time using an original period pattern I KNEW more than one fitting mockup would be made. I mean, since when does a pattern drafted to fit a woman in circa 1905 fit a 21st C. woman?
The first fitting was of the lining only. A simple 2-dart bodice front, back, side back and side pieces. Surprisingly, the size 36 bust fit well for “right out of the box.” I made my adjustments and was ready for a second fitting.
This time it would be a full mockup – lining, outer fabric and both sleeves.
Honestly, I really wanted to just skip the second fitting. (The Lazy Dressmaker…) My instincts told me it would be ok to simply cut out my final fabric. But I know better….
A mockup is truly a must when even a little doubt exists.
Since I was going for a full-on mockup, I decided to cut into $25/yd imported Swiss batiste…. Yeah. I did.
Heck! If it worked (as my mad patterning skills were telling me) I’d have a cute white Edwardian bodice.
The skirt here is out of yellow & white striped seersucker from the new Truly Victorian 1903 Trumpet Skirt pattern. The belt was furiously patterned based off of one in Jean Hunnisett’s book and cut from tan twill.
But the bodice! This mockup really DID turn out cute, and oh so wearable. :-)
The front has the low bosom puff of the period that merely gathers over the well-fitted lining.
The hem is drawn in with three rows of shirring (tight gathers). As snug as they are, I still stroked them for an even look before stitching down each row to the lining.
The back was a bit too short. (That’s why you do mockups so you’ll know where to alter!) But it doesn’t mean this mockup out of really expensive fabric is a waste. No. That’s where a period belt comes in – to hide it.
The extra back width is taken in by shirring again at the waist and by 3/8″ tucks at the neckline.
The lining is closed by hook & eye tape – a period method – right at center back. The fashion fabric will overlap and cover it. I’m thinking of only a few hooks & thread bars to keep it shut.
Would you believe the sleeves are unaltered from the original pattern? The puff parts at least. I copied the outer puff and under puff sections verbatim while I altered the sleeve lining pieces to fit my arm.
The under puff folds over and is topstitched onto the outer puff. I really had to spend time understanding this technique and also HOW to actually achieve it.
You can see the under puff pattern has a band that wraps around the arm as it secures the puff gathering too.
The alterations consisted of lengthening the center back an inch and taking in the lining darts as they weren’t as tight to the body over all my Edwardian undergarment layers as they should be.
Overall I’m extremely pleased with how my expensive mockup in “real fabric” turned out. It’s cute! Well… it will be once I finish the neckline and hem then trim the whole thing out in delicate lace.
UPDATE – The final version:
Have you ever sewn a mockup in “real fabric”? Did it turn out well enough for you to wear it?