Deconstructing an 1812 Evening Dress Trim

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on May 17, 2012

1812 July La Mode Assembly Evening Dress

1812 July La Mode Assembly Evening Dress

This plate from July 1, 1812 La Belle Assemblee was so well received on the Facebook page that I though we’d take a closer look at the wonderful trimming and how to replicate it.

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Who Else Has Trouble Figuring Flounces on 1850s Skirts?

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on May 10, 2012

1850 Godey's Wedding Costumes

I love ruffles! Lots of them. I love flounces too which are essentially long ruffles. I also love skirts with a few deep flounces attached. (I’m such a nerdy girly-girl.) Perhaps you love flounces to.

So when your design calls for three flounces on your wide c.1855 skirt, where do you begin?

I mean, it can’t be that easy to simply gather up a few lengths of material and attach them to a skirt.

Well, maybe…. But how do you figure for the width of each one? And if you’re like me, you’ll want to know exactly how many inches up from the hem they should be attached.

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Center Front Dog Leg

Perhaps you’re putting together a new summer dress.

Or maybe it’s a new work dress for camp.

All you know is that one piece dresses in the 1850s and 1860s had the bodice and skirt attached together. Then there is something about that closure that looks funny and seems daunting….

I mean, you could easily sew up a bodice and skirt. But connecting them when the center fronts don’t even match – holy cow! How does one do that??

I don’t know about you, but I find this skewed opening hard to figure. The bodice is fine, opens as usual. And the skirt is finished with the usual pleating at the top. But connecting them – that’s where it gets confusing.

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How to be a Shield Maiden

April 26, 2012 Sewing Tips

You’re standing under the two foot square of shade under the tree, fanning yourself as fast as possible. The cool air you crave is elusive…. Twirling around and around, you laugh and collide with fellow dancers on the packed floor…. If you do any sort of costume events in warm weather or in a ballroom, [...]

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19th C. Pocket Solutions Because You Have to Put Your iPhone Somewhere

April 19, 2012 Pattern Tips

Hidden pockets. Wide pockets. Tiny pockets. Welt pockets. Watch pockets. Patch pockets. Pockets with flaps. Pockets in seams. Decorative pockets and functional pockets. Inside pockets. Breast pockets. Back pockets. It truly is amazing the variety and locations of pockets in 19th Century clothing! For easy reference, let’s look at where our ancestors carried personal items [...]

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Figuring Out How To Do Pleats on the Back of a Bustle Bodice

April 5, 2012 Sewing Tips

Lately I’ve had fellow costumers ask me about those deep pleats you see on the back of 1870s and 1880s bodices. Those gorgeous fluffy pleats tucked into crisp folds floating above the puffed up bustle.   The pattern pieces don’t seem too crazy – a little jaunt out about 90 degrees from the seam then [...]

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The Purple Silk Edwardian Corset

March 29, 2012 Blog

Made from the same blackberry cream silk I used on my 1873 ruched gown, I can now add Edwardian corset to my list of completed projects. Yay!   Last summer Heather over at Truly Victorian came out with the most delicious surprises – she had ventured over the Century mark into the Edwardian Era. Did [...]

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Techniques for Easier Pleating in 19th Century Costuming

March 22, 2012 Fabrics & Trims

Have you noticed all the pleating in historical clothing? You can find various pleats on bodices, sleeves, jackets, dresses, skirts, waistbands, undergarments, petticoats, coats, cloaks, trims and so many other articles. Taking the time to put a pleated element into your 19th Century costume can take it from good to jazzy!

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3 Tips to Prevent the Lampshade Hoopskirt

March 15, 2012 Design & Silhouette

Successful historical costuming is all about the silhouette (among other things). When the dress is “just not right,” take a look at how it appears. Sometimes the proportions are off. Sometimes the undergarments hang funny. Other times it’s just the support shape the entire costume is built on. Reproduction hoopskirts from the Mid-Victorian era, the [...]

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Visit to Downtown LA for Costumes & Fabrics

March 11, 2012 Fabrics & Trims

Yesterday my husband and I made our annual trip to FIDM to see the Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibit in their museum. And, as always, we were not disappointed. (No photography is allowed in the museum so no pretty photos to gaze at the costumes.) It’s so much fun to see the movie [...]

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Searching for Historical Supplies from Chain Fabric Stores

March 8, 2012 Fabrics & Trims

It seems like every historical costumer’s journey to a closet full of pretty things to wear always includes a trip… or two… or three… to the local fabric store. We inevitably find ourselves on the quick run to grab thread, hook & eyes or even ribbon. But for so many of us (and yes, I [...]

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Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers

March 1, 2012 Pattern Tips

  If you’re at all like most historical costumers, you tend to focus on the main part of a new costume – the dress. I know I do. Sure, you give a thought to the corset; maybe even make a new one which we know is the substance for a well-presented silhouette. Then you follow [...]

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Reproducing a Late 1830s Pleated Sleeve

February 23, 2012 Pattern Tips

One of the most fun projects that I’ve had the chance to bring to life is a reproduction of a late 1830s dress held at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Having sewn 1830s garments before, the bodice and skirt seemed rather easy to me. But the sleeves were where the fun began.

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