Patterns for the Well-Dressed 19th Century Gentleman

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on May 9, 2013

Patterns for the Well-Dressed 19th C. Gentleman | HistoricalSewing.com

Hugh Dancy as Daniel Deronda set in the 1870s

Lest you think we forget our handsome gentlemen around here…

Without them where would our Elizabeth Bennet be? What about Molly without her Roger? Or Scarlet without her Ashley AND Rhett?

For these dashing men to be appropriately dressed, they must make a visit to their tailor – who probably dressed them to the T without the use of patterns. We, on the other hand, lowly 21st century seamstresses, dressmakers, and wannabe tailors must rely on ready-made patterns to get it right.

To help in your search for patterns to gussy up your man (or yourself!), here are several patterns that will draw the attention of all the ladies at the ball or picnic.

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Trimming a Regency Bonnet – Ideas & Instructions

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on May 2, 2013

Trimming a Regency Bonnet | HistoricalSewing.com

1817 Bonnets Moda di Francia

Jane Austen you say? Lizzy Bennet? A walk to Meryton? The War of 1812? Napoleon and Josephine’s court? If you are at all into the early 1800s you know you can’t dress up without completing the ensemble with a bonnet. (Heck! That’s why those films we swoon over are called “bonnet dramas.”)

The Regency Era has given us quite a number of bonnet styles. Capote styles (soft crown), cottage bonnets, and poke bonnets abound. It’s hard deciding on a favorite!

From feathers to flowers, let’s take a look at ideas we can utilize for decorating these delicate head toppers by using period fashion plates and writings for inspiration.

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Before Frosting You Must First Bake the Cake!

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on April 18, 2013

1887 Underskirt

1887 Underskirt in progress

I’ve been sewing for so long (nearly 30 years!) that all the prep work that goes into a garment seems boring to me. You know… washing, ironing, sewing endless straight seams on underskirts, hems, etc….

Apparently I forget that all the work that goes into creating the foundation of the silhouette IS what’s so important in how a garment turns out.

Building a sturdy foundation is where it’s at! It’s the proper undergarments. It’s using the right fabrics to support the fashion fabrics. It’s the fit of the base skirt over the silhouette that’s a reason to write home about.

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How to Sit in a Victorian Bustle Dress

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on April 11, 2013

1875 La Beau Monde Covent Garden

1875 La Beau Monde

I get asked quite often: “How in the world does one sit in a dress like that?!” No, really. How DO you sit down?

To help you all out with that burning question… here’s a video tutorial with tips for how to sit down when wearing a bustle dress from the 1870s or 1880s.

 

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Pleated Trim to Jazz up Your Victorian Neckline

April 4, 2013 Sewing Tips

Want to add pizazz to your Victorian dresses? Well, pleated trim is a fantastic way to go. You can cut strips of your dress fabric or use ribbon. Fold it, pleat it, gather it, or ruche it to make trim that complements your gown perfectly and adds that “Pop!” we all want from the historical [...]

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The Tail of 3 Bustles

March 28, 2013 Design & Silhouette

Once upon a time there was a girl fascinated with all lovely things Victorian. Her dress-up box (i.e. closets and hat boxes and shelves) was cram-packed with dresses and accessories made in luscious silks, light cottons, and other wonderful things. She had so many delights to be satisfied for a century, but it wasn’t enough…. The [...]

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11 Uses for a Seam Gauge in Historical Costuming

March 21, 2013 Sewing Tips

Do you have a seam gauge in your sewing basket? Do you love it as much as I do? This little 6″ strip of metal with a slider in the center is THE handiest of tools in any sewing room. If you don’t have one, drop everything and go get one now! (You can find [...]

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But I Can’t Make That! I Have No Place to Wear It!

March 14, 2013 Jen's Musings

Flipping through all the beautiful surviving garment photos makes me feel overwhelmed sometimes. SOOO many designs I simply HAVE to make. Have you experienced this too? Out pops a gorgeous gown that is so stunning it nearly makes you cry for the beauty of it. Ok – that one is definitely going on the list…. [...]

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You Have Made Your Hat… Now what?

March 7, 2013 Tools & Notions

Guest Article by Gina White Hours and hours have gone into the creation of your hat. (In my case blood, sweat, tears, frustration, and a few choice words go into the making as well….) You have worn your newly crafted chapeau to your event to the delight and amazement of your fellow event goers, and [...]

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A Look at an Original 1840s Corded Petticoat

February 28, 2013 Jen's Musings

Many years ago I started researching corded petticoats. It all began because I wanted to make an 1830s dress and needed the proper silhouette underneath. There wasn’t much information out there. But I picked up bits and pieces and started to put together what they really were and how they were made. Then I started [...]

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Upon Dressmaking circa 1851

February 14, 2013 Fitting Tips

Contemporary periodicals written in the past are such wonderful original sources we can pull from when researching costumes! Written by those who actually made and wore the clothing we so romanticize and re-create, these articles inspire and give us a glimpse into their world. I want to share with you a particular article about dressmaking [...]

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Matching Stripes on a Bodice

February 7, 2013 Sewing Tips

Stripes are awesome! (if you don’t know). And they rule fantastic designs throughout the 19th Century. What if you love stripes but the matching part terrifies you? You avoid sewing with beautiful linear patterns because you think the Stripe Matching Game is beyond your reach. I can assure you it’s not. It’s a matter of [...]

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Big Butts of the 19th Century

January 31, 2013 Design & Silhouette

A recent comment on the Facebook page indicated that the particular poster could not understand why anyone would want to wear something that made their behind big. Mind you, this was on a photo post of a Regency gown. My mind went immediately to my love of dresses from the 1870s and the popular “I [...]

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How Much Yardage Do I Need??

January 24, 2013 Fabrics & Trims

We’ve all been there. Standing in an aisle of gorgeous fabrics… swooning at the computer screen… gazing lovingly (and with drool at the mouth) at THE.PERFECT.FABRIC for that next dress. Question is… how much to buy? Will 5 yards be enough? 10? Or do I have to sell a kidney to afford some unmentionable amount [...]

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