Dealing with Sewing Burnout and Staying Encouraged

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on June 13, 2013

Dealing with Sewing Burnout | HistoricalSewing.com

A packed costume closet but suffering with burnout

We’ve all been there… pushing so hard in our sewing projects that the joy gets sucked out of us. We don’t even want to look at a spool of thread.

Burnout happens to all of us. Life gets in the way. We fall into a mode of doing so much for others that we find ourselves struggling with easy sewing techniques that were always so simple to us. Suddenly we realize our passion for making historical clothing and costumes is gone. There is no joy.

You are not alone! Here’s a quick video I recorded this week to encourage you to hang in there.

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How to Sew Cartridge Pleats

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on June 6, 2013

This tutorial is dedicated to Corinne Pleger who taught me the beauty of cartridge pleating in July 2000.

How to Sew Cartridge Pleats | HistoricalSewing.com

How to Sew Cartridge Pleats

Cartridge pleats are eye-catching! Neat little pleats stacked in a row, stitched together and standing at attention. Those little pleats do a heck of job too with getting an enormous amount of skirt fabric into a tiny waistband!

If you’re ready to tackle this common method of pleating in the mid-19th Century, let’s get to work on how these pleats are actually made. Although cartridge pleats are found on sleeve caps in the 1830s, we’ll stick to gauging skirts in this tutorial.

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Understanding How to Use a Needlepoint Tracing Wheel

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on May 30, 2013

How to Use a Needlepoint Tracing Wheel | HistoricalSewing.com

The Needlepoint Tracing Wheel

In high school clothing class I was taught to trace darts, seamlines, button placements, etc. with a round tracing wheel – you know, the one with the blue plastic handle? You cut your fabric then make a mess trying to get that carbon paper in-between the fabric and pattern to mark. Well, I ditched that practice as soon as possible. Couldn’t deal with all the time it took.

A needlepoint tracing wheel is NOT the same as a regular marking wheel. Leave those to the home ec marking class. We’re going to go deep into garment fitting and pattern drafting….

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Tips for Whipping up a 1880s Summer Berry Hat

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on May 23, 2013

Tips for Making a 1880s Hat | HistoricalSewing.com

1880s Summer Berry Hat

The latest millinery project to come from my sewing room is my 1880s Summer Berry Hat. It was made to complement my all-stripe 1887 Summer Berry Trifle dress (still in progress), and also became the foundation for the 1880s online hat class.

Whipping up something this yummy takes a bit of time, the right ingredients, and a little know-how to mix it up well and serve it delicately perched on the head.

I can’t say this was a “30-minute or less” project. The delicious trim took a good three evenings to get it all mounted into place. Along the way my previous millinery experience confirmed certain construction methods and I learned a new trick or two as well.

If you want to make your own Bustle Era hat, remember these tips so the icing on your costume cake will be divine!

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Patterns for the Well-Dressed 19th Century Gentleman

May 9, 2013 Pattern Tips

Lest you think we forget our handsome gentlemen around here… Without them where would our Elizabeth Bennet be? What about Molly without her Roger? Or Scarlet without her Ashley AND Rhett? For these dashing men to be appropriately dressed, they must make a visit to their tailor – who probably dressed them to the T [...]

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Trimming a Regency Bonnet – Ideas & Instructions

May 2, 2013 Design & Silhouette

Jane Austen you say? Lizzy Bennet? A walk to Meryton? The War of 1812? Napoleon and Josephine’s court? If you are at all into the early 1800s you know you can’t dress up without completing the ensemble with a bonnet. (Heck! That’s why those films we swoon over are called “bonnet dramas.”) The Regency Era [...]

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Before Frosting You Must First Bake the Cake!

April 18, 2013 Jen's Costume Projects

I’ve been sewing for so long (nearly 30 years!) that all the prep work that goes into a garment seems boring to me. You know… washing, ironing, sewing endless straight seams on underskirts, hems, etc…. Apparently I forget that all the work that goes into creating the foundation of the silhouette IS what’s so important [...]

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How to Sit in a Victorian Bustle Dress

April 11, 2013 Jen's Musings

I get asked quite often: “How in the world does one sit in a dress like that?!” No, really. How DO you sit down? To help you all out with that burning question… here’s a video tutorial with tips for how to sit down when wearing a bustle dress from the 1870s or 1880s.  

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Pleated Trim to Jazz up Your Victorian Neckline

April 4, 2013 Sewing Tips

Want to add pizazz to your Victorian dresses? Well, pleated trim is a fantastic way to go. You can cut strips of your dress fabric or use ribbon. Fold it, pleat it, gather it, or ruche it to make trim that complements your gown perfectly and adds that “Pop!” we all want from the historical [...]

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The Tail of 3 Bustles

March 28, 2013 Design & Silhouette

Once upon a time there was a girl fascinated with all lovely things Victorian. Her dress-up box (i.e. closets and hat boxes and shelves) was cram-packed with dresses and accessories made in luscious silks, light cottons, and other wonderful things. She had so many delights to be satisfied for a century, but it wasn’t enough…. The [...]

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11 Uses for a Seam Gauge in Historical Costuming

March 21, 2013 Sewing Tips

Do you have a seam gauge in your sewing basket? Do you love it as much as I do? This little 6″ strip of metal with a slider in the center is THE handiest of tools in any sewing room. If you don’t have one, drop everything and go get one now! (You can find [...]

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But I Can’t Make That! I Have No Place to Wear It!

March 14, 2013 Jen's Musings

Flipping through all the beautiful surviving garment photos makes me feel overwhelmed sometimes. SOOO many designs I simply HAVE to make. Have you experienced this too? Out pops a gorgeous gown that is so stunning it nearly makes you cry for the beauty of it. Ok – that one is definitely going on the list…. [...]

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You Have Made Your Hat… Now what?

March 7, 2013 Tools & Notions

Guest Article by Gina White Hours and hours have gone into the creation of your hat. (In my case blood, sweat, tears, frustration, and a few choice words go into the making as well….) You have worn your newly crafted chapeau to your event to the delight and amazement of your fellow event goers, and [...]

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A Look at an Original 1840s Corded Petticoat

February 28, 2013 Jen's Musings

Many years ago I started researching corded petticoats. It all began because I wanted to make an 1830s dress and needed the proper silhouette underneath. There wasn’t much information out there. But I picked up bits and pieces and started to put together what they really were and how they were made. Then I started [...]

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