This post was first published in November 2017. With all the crazy happenings of 2020 and 2021 within our community I thought it good to take a look at this topic again.
Being perfect. What does that mean? When you strive for “perfect” you nearly always fall short of it. As one of my mentors once said, “it’s only after a project is complete that you can look back and say, ‘Wow! That came out perfect.'”
Perfect: having all the required or desirable elements, qualities, or characteristics; as good as it is possible to be; faultless; flawless; completely free from faults or defects.
Perfectionism: refusal to accept any standard short of perfection
When talking about a costuming project, perfectionism is overrated. I mean, we’re dealing with garments to wear. Clothing. Varying skill levels. Budget issues.
Somehow, in the modern historical costuming community being perfect has become a “thing,” especially recently.
That if, oh, dear, you are sewing at six stitches an inch it’s therefore wrong because it should be 10 per inch.
Or if you naturally look a particular way you shouldn’t be wearing XYZ styles.
Or because your husband got laid off leaving you with only a few bucks for a new dress and the poly taffeta is your best option…. and you are getting bashed for it….
Lately, and quite unfortunately, I’m hearing more of bullying in our costuming groups. This saddens me. And a lot of it stems from having a “holier than thou” attitude and bringing perfectionism into the conversation…. at least what perfection means to those people commenting about someone else’s work.
Listen, I’ve said for years that costuming keeps us dreaming and stomping on someone else’s dream and creativity is no way to advance the art and keep it alive.
Those of us who create historical garments have a variety of goals as distinct as each person in our small community. The path is different and varied for all. We connect to each other in the general sense of wanting to produce garments and accessories based on historical fashion. HOW we go about it, and to what level of detail, is what makes us different and colors this hobby in a myriad of ways.
Some may only need a dress for the upcoming picnic so they don’t look out of place. They have no desire or need to wear it later.
Others want some historical accuracy but are restrained by time and/or budget considerations, so shortcuts are necessary.
Yet still others want to delve into the WHY behind the sewing techniques and methods used by our ancestors.
Then there are the scholars who not only want to research it all about a particular garment or era but also want to reproduce items as close as possible to the originals.
EACH AND EVERY ONE OF THESE VIEWPOINTS IS VALID AND NECESSARY IN OUR COMMUNITY. No one is wrong in their chosen path.
Your goal is different from mine. The why I do something is just as important as your why.
Every now and again our paths may cross to travel the same road in trying to achieve similar results. Yet, your path will vary greatly from mine. And this is not wrong. It’s what makes us individually unique and connect to our humanity.
But don’t bring your perfectionism into my world when you think I’m doing something that’s “not what they did.” Sure, there are good and bad choices, but that doesn’t make them incorrect when we are talking about a creative endeavor.
Historical costuming is creative from YOUR personal point of view. We each bring our modern, 21st century ideals and thoughts along with current skills and knowledge into each project we work on. We learn as we go. Our minds are opened to new ideas and methods as they are presented to us on our path.
It’s sad that one’s perfectionism – that turns into bullying – ignites the need to knock another’s creative work because they “know” how it’s supposed to be or look like when it could be that that other person is simply quite happy with their work.
There’s room for all of us in this sewing community. We NEED everyone here to share their knowledge, their works, their skills.
But don’t let it get to you if I don’t use your detailed research on how to make a Victorian bodice when I’ve found a better way – for me – in using other techniques. There’s no reason to bash my use of a serger because it’s not your perfect way of sewing Victorian garments.
Let’s keep “perfect” out of the conversation.
Allowing others the freedom to pursue their individual goals is thoughtful and caring. What makes this community Joyful.
In other words, let’s not push what we individually consider the “perfect” technique onto someone else. There’s many ways to produce results when re-creating historical clothing. Instead, let’s encourage others from where they are today on their journey!
Together we make this creative hobby fun and welcoming to newcomers. We are responsible for sharing and encouraging the next generation to take up where we have left off. And bullying has no place here.
I’ll be frank and open. As someone who “wants the pretty dress” and teaches others the basics of historical sewing so they can have their pretty dress too, I will continue to move forward with promoting good things that come into our community that are beneficial to others – be it a book, a pattern, new research, a blog post, whatever.
I will support others’ creative projects that are based on historical fashion whether they are hand sewn stays, a machine embroidered Titanic gown, or a Steampunk wardrobe.
Plain and simple: I am not, primarily, a researcher, a scholar, or one who is trying to find out “exactly” how our ancestors made their clothing. I study originals enough to then use my talent of engineering to teach others how to do it. I don’t want to teach at the level of perfectionism. Because most people today don’t want to or don’t have time to make things exactly like they did.)
I want people to sew and make things! To create that pretty dress. To be inspired. Darn it all if it’s not historically accurate! That’s not the path I’m on. Life is too short.
However, you may be on that path – great! I’ll leave the detailed research to others and for those people who want to delve more into the studying I don’t care to do. To those who actually care about counting the stitches – which is still a super valid point of view.
As you move forward on your own journey be careful in thinking your research is the “be all and end all” way of making historical garments. THAT is the perfectionism I’m talking about. And we don’t need that here.
You do what you feel is the best for creative journey and I’ll follow my path. Together we can make the world a prettier place!
Cheers, my friends!
~Jennifer 🙂
Thanks for bringing us back to a more reasonable perspective. Costuming should be fun and educational if sometimes exasperating. You remind us to have a more generous spirit. Remember all the effort you put in and appreciate someone else’s.
Dear Jennifer
Thank you from the bottom of my heart for this! I have to admit that I have been sorely discouraged by the trend towards historically accurate over everything else in costuming.
While I do want to be able to be as accurate as my meager budget will allow, I also understand that not everyone has the time, money or sewing experience to pull off a historically accurate outfit the first time out of the gate, or sometimes even the 10th or 20th.
Clothing should make you feel good, and if you feel good in something, as I call it, historically inspired,, then you should not be talked down because of it! As you have always said, this is a hobby. Hobbies are supposed to be fun and make you feel good, not cause you undo stress. If you want to be historically accurate, that’s great. If you just want to look pretty and have fun at a Civil War Ball or Renaissance 12th Night celebration, that’s great too!
Ladies and Gents, please remember that we all start from a desire to do our best to honor our fore-bearers, some of us are going to be better than others. That is not a reason to be uncharitable towards those that are not on the same level as you are or have different subjects they wish to focus on in their journey.
My best friend makes wonderful historically accurate as possible food, she doesn’t give a fig about clothing as long as she doesn’t catch fire while she’s cooking. I try to be as historically accurate as possible, but my focus is more on quilting, crochet, etc so my clothing can be a bit more utilitarian than my status should provide. But we have FUN at our events and we do our best to portray the period correctly.
Anyway, I have rambled on enough for now. Once again, thank you so very, very much for this!
THANK YOU for this post! I’m a “pretty dress” person too, and my main sewing goals are to attempt/improve on one new technique with each new piece I make; whether it’s doing a better job fitting, or getting that darn piping to lay perfectly flat, or even making sure I pick out ALL the loose threads after the umpteenth time of ripping out the sleeve inset. For me, it’s not about stitches per inch, or using cotton/silk thread, when I have poly thread in just the right color. And yes, I will absolutely use my serger whenever I can, because it’s FRIGGING AWESOME. For those who have the heart to hand bead, or hand stitch, bless them. They’re doing what they love in the way they love to do it, but don’t expect me to be stitching hidden long seams by candlelight. 😉
Reminding everyone that there is no perfection, and to be kind, is seriously needed right now., and honestly, I needed that reminder as well. <3 I'll try to remember to remove the P-word from my costuming vocabulary.
Call it “Striving for Excellence” – you remove perfection and also give yourself grace to do the best you can and forgiveness when it’s less than stellar. 🙂
To the “perfectionists” out there: women throughout history have had to make-do, improvise, rush, work on a budget, recycle, and reuse – very little of it is “perfect”. I have access to a collection of historical garments donated to my institution, and it was an education to be able to go through them, turn them inside out, peer into the hows and whys. Beautiful, yes, but whip stitching that was as messy as mine (heh!), lining patched together from someone’s scrap bag, little time/effort saving shortcuts here and there. Ruffles pieced together with on-grain and bias scraps? Yep. Fancy where it shows and cheap where it doesn’t? You bet! Sure, a privileged few wore Worth gowns, but the vast majority had to get thrifty and creative and the results were still pretty. Victorians adopted the home sewing machine, synthetic dyes, and machine lace pretty quickly, and you can bet is someone had invented the serger or synthetic taffeta (wait – artificial silk made of viscose was invented in the 1880s!), they would have used that, too! In short, I think those who do what they can with what’s available are far more “authentic” than someone who it trying to emulate having a dedicated couturier.
Excellent viewpoint and comments! As I say often… it was simply their clothing not made for a museum someday.
Bravo dear. I’m always striving for perfectionism but… My blog name is juswingit for a reason. I love searching for how they did it back then, but even I know there were many who had neither the time nor the money to learn the perfection of their garments. Some of them had to just wing it too.
Good post and great reminder for us to have a gentle spirit towards those who are still working their way to their perfectionism. Only one has ever made it there and it be the Lord Jesus Christ for which we celebrate this season in the year.
Indeed. I’ve heard the Amish (other other Christian group) would purposely sew a mistake in each quilt made for “only God is perfect.”
Merry Christmas!
When I was costuming for the stage, critics called me on the carpet for not costuming the peasant class in the same style as the nouveau riche. Yup, it happened. The beggar class always ran around in the latest styles, right? There are times when striving for period correctness simply cannot be done beyond a certain point because amazingly, we cannot hire the Royal Academy at Hampton Court to sew up a new gown. (But wouldn’t it be fun if we could?) Aspiring to the standards of my Grandmother are high enough for me. She was wonderful, but not perfect. Mom sometimes said,” well, walk quickly, no one will see the boo boo.” Usually as a clue that a small section of hem needed attention. (Like when I thought I’d finished but one section was still just basted.)
While I admit I sometimes roll my eyes at those who don’t even *try* to understand the historical bases of their period, I’m all for breaking rules, when you fully know how and why you’re breaking them! I often make modifications for various reasons due to the situation in which I’m wearing a costume- for example, I forgo restrictive or bulky sleeves as I’m typically handling dogs at events and need to be ready to spring into action when they pick up a stray turkey bone, unencumbered! I also will continue to fight the glasses fight and wear my spectacles in costume- period accurate glasses are very expensive, or didn’t even exist in certain periods I do, I am medically unable to wear contacts, and unable to function without my glasses. So I don’t care if people are “annoyed” it’s an anachronism, they’re a medical necessity and I will continue to wear them. Just as I will continue to wear my historically inaccurate leg and footwear (hidden under large skirts!) in order to accommodate my bad foot, and forgo wearing a corset on days where my IBS is acting up.
I know I’m a couple of days behind on this one – it’s been a bit of a busy holiday season – but I’d like to say that that sort of behavior always saddens me.
Jennifer, your blog was the very first sewing blog that I started following and you have been a HUGE inspiration to me. You always seem so very open and engaging and encouraging. I think somewhere along the way I began to think that everyone in the historical dress community was basically the same, which I think stems from the fact that I am not a reenactor, so I don’t run into any regulated clothing situations. I spend a lot of time trying to spread my love of sewing (and of sewing pretty dresses) to the people around me. I wish that everyone did that, instead of trying to bash things that they don’t like.
Keep sewing, everyone, and keep making those dresses! Don’t let anyone get you down – Jennifer is 100% correct – everyone’s individual way is valid and good!
Thank you, Jennifer, for everything you do for sewing and historical sewing and pretty dresses and teaching! We appreciate you!!!!!
Michelle
Thank you, Michelle. I appreciate the encouragement! 🙂
I am in support of your perspective–with a nuance. Unfortunately, there are people out there who present themselves in blogs, patterns, and teaching as authorities on the period they sew. Unfortunately, some of these “experts” don’t responsibly point out the limits of their expertise–or when they are knowingly diverge from historic methods and materials. In my group, it is very difficult to manage the situation when someone uses these as rationale for breaking group clothing standards (which are required not only by our mission but by the requirements of the sites we serve). I think bloggers, pattern designers, and instructors have a higher level of responsibility for publicly identifying their anachronisms. Also, they need to be open and ready to revise when they learn they have been unwittingly conveying inaccurate information. I think that this is critical, because many newcomers seek to be accurate, but don’t have reliable sources for achieving that goal. When “experts” give them misinformation, the result is just as cruel.
I am honestly impressed at how badly you misunderstood the point of this post.
Jennifer: Don’t bully, judge, or be unkind to people who have different standards, goals, and aims from you!
OP: *comes into the comments and does just that*
Cara, I supported Jennifer on these points. Your response isn’t germane to the problem of “experts” who knowingly promote unhistoric techniques and inaccuracies. This deliberately sets newcomers up for disappointment when they receive a polite “I’m sorry but that isn’t in compliance” response in groups or sites where accuracy standards are formally mandated. I would appreciate the kindness of the gesture if you could respond to this point rather than judging me harshly on points I never disagreed with.
If newcomers are part of an organization that has “standards” they must follow, it is incumbent on them to follow know and those rules. they should use blogs and websites as guides and nothing else. “Experts” online cannot be responsible for all the different levels of seekers of information on the web. It is ludicrous to think that all the blogger out there have to tailor their pages or add disclaimers to weed out skill sets or compliance guidelines. Who’s guidelines??? I belong to 4 different groups that all have different guidelines. I would never expect someone else to mange MY hobby for me. I look to these blogs for help with techniques I have little experience with. I think others are smart enough to do the same. If not…The groups they belong to with the STANDARDS should hold classes in those standards and show them how to maintain them.
Well said! Thank you for taking a stand. There is never any place For bullying. Sad to hear some think it’s ok. Recently found your blog – so very glad to “meet you”.
Cheers
Kimber
Nice to meet you too, Kimber! 🙂
Amen! I have been studying historic dress since I was 12 years old( to dress Barbie)-I am 62! I am a fiber artist and and painter, I raise my own llamas for fiber and spin/weave cloth. I know textiles–addicted to silk and wool! Dressing myself historically has been a natural development of my demonstrating at historical sites. As a result of a show at the Met in NYC a few years ago called “Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity, as well as historicalsewing.com I have been inspired to ramp up my level of perfection on a costume project where I have been creating historic designs based on the Impressionsts and their view of the fashionable woman as a symbol of modernity. I had an exhibit of my work at Nazareth Art Center in PA last spring and I lecture on historic costume. I also am a professor of art and art history. And YES I get bashed! Most of the people who do so really don’t know what they are talking about in terms of historical accuracy. Many don’t even sew–they buy. I think that offering gentle suggestions for the sake of education is fine–emphasizing the positive is the best education!. Hassling someone else negatively for their designs is inexplicable. I have to admit though, that I sometimes go out of my way to annoy obviously obnoxious re-enactors:) For example, when one of them corrects me for using the term “costume” I try to use it as many times as possible in the conversation to explain how if your consult a fashion plate source such as Harper’s or Godey’s you can see the term “costume” (meaning an ensemble) used many times. At the Met, they call it the COSTUME institute–hello! Love your website.
Lydia “”Llama Lady”
Yes! The term “costume” is period correct!! It means ensemble and can be found abundantly in periodicals of the 19th century.
My husband and I do historical reenactment, mostly Ren Faire but also a lot of mid-19th century stuff. At some of the faires we have costume standards, some don’t. I find that I am happiest where they have standards, but I never criticize the customer’s who make an effort to put on some sort of costume. It’s how I started, I look back at my first efforts and can see the flaws but I also remember how much I enjoyed wearing them. I also remember being a single mom with 3 kids who had to stay up until midnight if she wanted to finish everyone’s costumes, no way could I have sewn things perfectly then.
The sheer amount of new information available can be overwhelming,it seems like every day there is something new to be learned. In fact, I just did my first dogleg closure using your directions. I had never even heard of them until this year!
.I’m a person who enjoys research and hand sewing but I also use my sewing machine quite a bit. One of things that I tell myself when something doesn’t come out exactly like planned is “Just because they had to do themselves doesn’t mean that they were good at it.”
Historical costuming is not a race, it isn’t a contest. It’s a hobby and it’s meant to be fun. I too want all the pretty dresses.
THIS! YES!
Apart from your obvious sewing knowledge, skill and the useful information you post, THIS is why I began to follow your posts on the subject of historical costuming. I believe you posted a similar article awhile back. You are truly an inspiration! I have yet to get into a really big project, but when I do, I would be MORTIFIED if someone ripped me apart on something I’ve spent hard earned time and money working on. There is a big difference between malicious criticism and helpful advice.
Thank-you for sending out a reminder to the costuming world!
I’ve written several similar blog posts which are linked throughout this one. I believe in encouraging one another! Cheers, and thanks for following/reading. 🙂
Love this article. I have created costumes for years but in a different realm. Dance.
It gave me much enjoyment to see them come alive on stage. To watch them become a second skin with the amazing dancers.
Crossing over into making clothing costumes was a bit of a eye opener.
I had made some with different techniques and I was rather proud of them but boy did I feel out of place.
However out of place I felt I didn’t care if I didn’t fit in. Fitting in is never fun if you can’t be yourself.
I have learned a new balance between the two world’s. Learning is very challenging and rewarding.
Again thank you for putting costuming in great perspective.
Cheers
Thank you for posting this! It makes me happy to know that folks are standing up for themselves and others, and declaring their freedom to enjoy their creativity and sewing! YOU DO YOU 🙂
I used to work at a Civil War museum, and ended up never finishing an 1860s dress I started because some of the reenactors who volunteered there were so judgmental. I didn’t want to have to carry an old photo with me when I wore it, to prove that so-and-so detail was in fact copied from history, so I got as far as the undergarments and gave up.
I’ve just gotten back into working with historical patterns – my first big project was an 1890s western cosplay, and despite it being inspired by fictional characters, I incorporated as much authenticity as I could! It was this project that has made me want to delve into more. Thank you for your openness to other outlets and methods for historical sewing, I appreciate your viewpoint and enjoy following your posts! 🙂
Thanks for reading Heidi! And may you be inspired as you go forth with the details. 🙂
When I do historical sewing and find a need to improvise, whether budget driven, or inability to do certain techniques, I think that there certainly must have been many who had the same constraints. Not everyone could afford a professional dressmaker. So..therefore, there must have been improvisations, and I believe these little changes often led to bigger and better designs! So..I don’t sweat the small stuff. And I have far more fun as a result. There is NO WAY we can ever re-create exactly. We simply cannot BE those historic dressmakers. We are modern women.
That is exactly the subject of my blog post here. We CANNOT be 100% accurate because we were not there.
Thank you so much for saying this! I find the history behind clothing and how it’s made very interesting, but I usually don’t have the time/money to produce things that way. It shouldn’t mean I get excluded from fun, or get looked down on for needing to take the shortcuts/budget friendly options that I often need too.
It’s great seeing so many speaking out about the issue in the community. In the past I have seen people standing up for themselves being called the one in the wrong for “rocking the boat” or avoiding someone who bullies them as “snubbing.” It’s made a lot of people put up with behavior that is unacceptable, or leave the community completely. We all have something we can contribute; and we all deserve to have some fun.
I agree with you. I have also been subject to bullying in the other direction: being ridiculed because I want to do research and find out answers to all the questions and make things as close to the originals as I can. I think we all need to do what makes us happy, and accept that not everone is the same. Wouldn’t life be boring if we were?
Bravo!
I am one of those that strives to achive perfection but that is MY challange. I remember starting out with a basic outfit & getting picked on because it was machine made. Every one is at different levels so let’s just enjoy and support everyone’s creations what is most important is that you are happy with your outfits
Yes!
I have recently become one of your fans and am enjoying your articles. This one in particular is terrific. Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I’ve entered and won many a costume award from national costume conventions and I’ve pretty well worked my way up in the ranks. Recently I’ve not been as active because of health and finances.
While competing in these events I’ve come to appreciate the term costume nazi… meaning someone who is seriously critical of costuming efforts. It borders on bullying..
Your article has made me look back with greater compassion for what other’s have done and achieved. I thank you for that.
I sew. Most of my sewing, well a great deal of my sewing is on a machine. I’ve yet to master the art of tailoring.
Thanks for your words of encouragement, expertise and creativity.
Blessings, Robert Moyer
Thanks for your comments, Robert. Glad to have you part of our Joyful Community!
Years ago I was getting so into historical costuming that it started to cloud my views of others and became judgmental (in my own head and in discussions with close friends) of those who weren’t trying to be more historically accurate. A friend kindly shared her story with me a few years back about words I’d said to her from this “costume n*zi” standpoint. It turned me around to now supporting ALL the variances and viewpoints we have in this community. They are ALL valid and deserve to be treated with kindness and encouragement.
Blessings to you as well!
Thank you so much for writing this! I raised my children in *rendezvous* which so many historical re-enactors look down on. I love historical re-enacting, but I have never had the time or money to do it the way I’d like to, with as much historical accuracy as possible. I would LOVE to do the research necessary to costume the ‘right’ way; as it is, I learn as much as possible from the kind and knowledgeable people on sites such as this. It is nice to know that not everyone will judge me because I am not perfect. Thank you!
You are welcome here, Denise! I like to study the “right” way to do things, but I also love my serger and need to finish things fast sometimes.
Hear hear! Yes! Thank you for this post – I am sad this is happening but glad there has been push back on it. Bullying has no place in our hobby – this is supposed to be fun, after all. ❤❤❤
Very well said! I am one who is completely unconcerned with being historically accurate, but do try and convey it as closely as time and budget allow. I admire you for serging everything. Your outfits will stand up to modern movement and wear a lot better than my unfinished seams. I have a serger but haven’t used it yet 😀 Next on my list to conquer.
Do it! You will love flatlining with a serger, and then yes, raw edges that hold up to wearing. Plus, it simply looks good and finished on the inside. 🙂
Well said! This post is perfection! 🙂
While I try to use all cotton or linen thread, material appropriate to the era, etc I do very little hand sewing. Why? Because I hate it. Even though, as you eloquently stated, there is pressure for historical accuracy. But I decided a while back that as this is a hobby for me I am going to create costumes that bring me pleasure. Sure wish I had a serger.
Why, thank you! And indeed – focus on what gives you JOY. 🙂
Hi Laura. I met you at last week’s Dallas/Ft Worth Costumers Guild Georgian Picnic. Your dress was lovely, and it inspired me to make a similar garment.
Classy!