Not Inclined to Dance, I can’t move my arms – Ease-y Does It – Part 3

  I’ve sewn way too many garments (both historical and modern) where the sleeve was just a little too tight around the upper arm limiting my movement. This is especially frustrating after valuable time was spent adjusting the pattern in the first place. Wrapping up our Ease-y Does It series for adding Historical Ease to Read More...

Can’t get those buttons closed? Ease-y does it – Part 2

  Ever have that moment when you’re dressing for an event only to put on your bodice and the front doesn’t close? And you’re cinched down in your corset as far as you can go? Yeah, me too. You know the mockup was perfect. You spent hours fine tuning the darts and armhole. Now it Read More...

Struggling to get that waistband closed? Ease-y Does It – Part 1

When I first started sewing historical skirts (mainly bustle costumes) I didn’t think of just how many layers go around the waist. I knew I had my bustle plus a petticoat or two, then the skirt and overskirt. Of course I would be wearing all of those…. But I forgot to calculate that all those Read More...

Bonnets to Fit Your Pretty Little Head

 Bonnets – A Fitting Start By: lana/Lily Sometimes they inspire a new dress design, sometimes they are the finishing touch, and sometimes they are the pièce de résistance of an ensemble.  No matter where they are in the design process a Bonnet can be a work of art!  These small but mighty creations are miniature Read More...

The 1886 Ivory Spring Hat

But of course I needed a new hat for my new Bubble Gum Dress! Headwear including hats, bonnets, caps, floral wreaths and such can make such a difference to the overall finished look to a costume. People in the 19th Century wouldn’t go out in public without *something* on their head. So here’s what I Read More...

Overcoming Pattern Failure

Can You Relate to Frustrating Sewing Patterns? The jacket pattern has just stopped “working”…. You’ve made four bodice mockups and it *still* doesn’t look right. You’ve had enough of the project because the pattern pieces are just not lining up. The garment’s not coming out like you expected. It totally doesn’t look like the pattern Read More...

Embroidered Voile Regency – Cutting & Pattern Work

Initial progress has been made on my ca. 1811 embroidered voile Regency gown. I pulled out all my most recent dress patterns and decided to go with a combo of my last Regency ballgown and the bodiced petticoat I made for under it. Here I’m tracing the original pattern. I then cut down the neckline, lowered Read More...

Seamlines of 1860s Fashions

As I browse through the myriad of fashions in my Godey’s Lady’s Books from the 1860s, I take note that underneath all the ruffles, rows of velvet bands, trim panels, fringe and other various items, the shape of the dresses themselves stays relatively the same. Honestly, if you study any mainstream fashion you’ll notice the Read More...