Hidden pockets. Wide pockets. Tiny pockets. Welt pockets. Watch pockets. Patch pockets. Pockets with flaps. Pockets in seams. Decorative pockets and functional pockets. Inside pockets. Breast pockets. Back pockets.
It truly is amazing the variety and locations of pockets in 19th Century clothing!
For easy reference, let’s look at where our ancestors carried personal items in pockets sewn into their garments. Then you can easily add them to your own projects. (Perhaps you’ll remember to actually put them in instead of forgetting like I always seem to do. Doh!)
Regency 1800-1820:
1800 Lady with Reticule Bag
Before the Regency era, personal items were held in pocket bags that were tied underneath the petticoats (skirts) and accessed through slits in the sides. As the dresses in the early 1800s slimmed down, these pockets were no longer hidden. So women carried reticules to hold their personal necessities.
And what woman wouldn’t want a lovely new accessory to show off! The Regency is FILLED with lovely reticules. This is the period solution to carrying your modern cell phone and keys when attending a Jane Austen picnic or ball.
c.1830 Muslin Dress with 1800-1825 Purple Silk Reticule
Rarely would you find an attached pocket sewn into a Regency skirt seam. However, examples from existing garments of the era show slits in skirts for access to loose pockets tied around the waist.
Romantic Era 1820-1840:
1838 Full Skirted Dresses
I love this time period! Funky hair, big sleeves, and wide skirts – full enough to disguise the largest of pockets! (I’m sure you could even get away with storing your 10″ iPad in these skirts!)
As women’s skirts became fuller, reticules were still used but hand pockets were added into the side seams of skirts. Openings in the skirt panel, usually on the right side-back area and either in a seam or slit opened and narrow hemmed, allowed for pocket bags to be sewn along the opening or given access to pockets tied around the waist underneath the skirt.
Also, a new addition of a watch pocket is seen on surviving articles later in this period. They are placed at the waistband/skirt seam with access from the outside between the two. Such a brilliant solution so you will always have the time at hand!
Early Victorian/Crinoline Era/Civil War 1840-1870:
1863 Wide Skirts Perfect for Pockets
The side pockets, being well hidden in the now extremely full skirts, either on the side or towards the back, became quite large.
The tiny watch pocket was becoming more popular. It was only a couple inches wide and deep and added to the inside of the skirt at the waist. It was set slightly off-center too. I’ve only put in one of these along the off-center opening on my early 1860s dress but it sure is handy!
Pocket Trick: For skirt pockets in your 1860s Civil War clothing, pull from the 18th Century!
- Leave an opening along a side or side back skirt seam at hip level, and narrow hem the seam allowances.
- Cut and sew a 18th C. pocket bag complete with the finished opening (but do not set on a waist tape).
- Align the finished pocket slit underneath the finished opening in the skirt seam and sew together.
- Baste top of pocket to the pleated waist edge of the skirt, and finish the skirt waistband.
The top of the pocket should be long enough to reach all the way up to the waistline of the skirt. Allow for this when drafting or selecting your pocket pattern. Also be mindful that the length of the pocket slit should be the same length as the skirt seam opening and placed accordingly.
Bustle Era 1870-1889:
Ahh… my favorite era to completely forget putting pockets in the skirt.
1877 Ladies with Pockets on the Outside
Now that the War was over and sewing machines helped finish dresses in half the time, trims exploded onto gowns – including the popular pocket. Now pockets were seen!
Functional patch pockets and flapped pockets were mounted flat onto skirt panels. You could find them at the side or side back area and also on the lower part of a long basque bodice. Trim was also added to simulate pockets here too. (But we’re only talking about a holding place for your keys and lipstick.
Hidden Watch Pocket in c.1880 Gown
Large hidden pockets were still applied to skirt seams until the late ‘70s Natural Form. This c.1880 dress has a hidden watch pocket along the front princess seam.
In the fitted 1880s dresses with their very slim front, a large pocket with lumpy articles (like keys and a fan) would show through this fitted form. The solution – women simply moved their skirt pockets further to the back – some even into the center back seam. Wouldn’t that would be nice to sit on!
Late Victorian 1890-1900:
The epitome of Victoriana! 1890s skirt styles were smoothed around multiple petticoats and, depending on the weight of your fabric, skirt side pockets were still found at the side back area and mostly on the right hand side.
Watch pockets at the waistband were still used; however, many existing bodices indicate tiny watch pockets sewn inside the bodice at the center front opening right at bust apex level. These small patches also show up on the outside of the bodices at bust level. (What a strange place but they did it!)
Of course, even though you see pockets sewn into clothing throughout most of the century, reticules, bags and purses were carried quite often.
Though, instead of juggling a reticule with a parasol, fan, dance card, camera and champagne glass, simply put a large pocket into your skirt side seam and stash away those modern items. It’s a nice modern solution that’s period correct as well!
Where are your functional pockets located in your period clothing? Do you remember to add them when you’re making the costume?
{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }
I’ll need to remember this page when I make my next dress! I’ve just finished my first period style ball gown (or any gown, really) and I made a reticule to match. But POCKETS! Next time, I’ll try to remember! Also, I need to go to your facebook page to share my ‘first ballgown’ pictures!
I might make a pare of 18th C. pockets to go under my regency bib fronted day dress.
That actually works – I’ve done it out of frustration. As long as you don’t care that your silhouette isn’t exactly maravilleaux!
I sew pockets into absolutely all of my Hoop Era dresses (well, except for sheers…) I love them, and they are just so darn handy! I often carry little reticules around as well to accessorize, but there’s nothing for carrying around your indispensable items like a trusty pocket in your skirt
I have a pocket in the seam of my Victorian dress for more necessary items, and another hidden under the bustle ruffles for less immediately-necessary items!
Check this out… it appears to be a small pocket hidden under a flap at bust level on the left hand side of the bodice. http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80036161?img=5
There’s another one here- http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80036269?img=4
They may be something else entirely, but since I can’t think of a single other purpose for them, I’m assuming they’re pockets!
Actually, my guess would be that those are for breastfeeding. Very cool that you found them & shared. Thanks!
This is my first attempt at a gown that I’m sewing for Dickens on the Strand in December (I figured I’d need loads of time to do all the underpinnings, et cetera!). Anyway, I’ve been agonizing over things like where to carry those pesky little modern items such as camera, iPhone, keys, and so on, and then I thought, what about little details such as driving a car or using a port-a-potty at the event! Yikes! I’m visualizing myself struggling with a hoop, dumping things out of my pocket, not being able to close the door of the ‘privy’, and whatnot! And don’t get me started on calling the fire department to use the jaws of life to pry me out of my car when I arrive at my destination in a hoop. While I would love to have the experience of wearing a hoop, alas my transportation limitations and living so far from the event probably will have me wearing a mass of petticoats and sewing many secret and heavy-duty pockets into my gown… What are your thoughts? What do the ladies usually do in these ‘modern’ situations?
Hi Judy,
Yay for starting early on your gown! You will have fun and learn lots.
Have you read this article? http://historicalsewing.com/what-everyone-ought-to-know-about-wearing-a-victorian-corset Lots of tips for how to move in a corset but also when you have layers of petticoats, hoop & skirts on.
Jennifer
Judy, I’ve worn a farthingale before–an Elizabethan hoop skirt–and what I did was make it with a drawstring waistband. Then I put on JUST my undergarments, aside from the farthingale, and drove the 2 hours to the Ren Faire. In the parking lot, I put on the fatrhingale, petticoats, skirts, and bodice–all carefully laid in the trink in the right order to put them on quickly. I had a friend to help, but I actually wound up not needing her other than to tell me that yep, everything was on straight. It took me all of about ten minutes at the back of the car to accomplish this.
Also, if you’re concerned about dumping things out of your pocket, use a tiny scrap of Velcro–not period, I know, but if you have it hidden, no one will ever know. And if you go, “but *I* would know!” (which I admit to doing), you could always use a hook and bar, which would be less convenient but still openable. Generally, though, as long as you make your pockets deep enough to hold what you want them to hold, youll be fine. So test that out in your muslin stage! Make pocket, toss stuff in, see how it strains. I usually make sure I’ve got enough space for my stuff and half my hand, too, for each pocket.
Just had an aha moment with this entry. I’m making an 1878 outfit for a lady photographer and will be carrying an antique camera and “taking photos”. I planned to hand out preprinted photos to people but had no idea where to carry them. THIS is perfect,and the right time period! Thank you Jennifer!