19th C. Pocket Solutions Because You Have to Put Your iPhone Somewhere

  Hidden pockets. Wide pockets. Tiny pockets. Welt pockets. Watch pockets. Patch pockets. Pockets with flaps. Pockets in seams. Decorative pockets and functional pockets. Inside pockets. Breast pockets. Back pockets. It truly is amazing the variety and locations of pockets in 19th Century clothing! For easy reference, let’s look at where our ancestors carried personal Read More...

Figuring Out How To Do Pleats on the Back of a Bustle Bodice

Lately I’ve had fellow costumers ask me about those deep pleats you see on the back of 1870s and 1880s bodices. Those gorgeous fluffy pleats tucked into crisp folds floating above the puffed up bustle. The pattern pieces don’t seem too crazy – a little jaunt out about 90 degrees from the seam then straight Read More...

Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers

If you’re at all like most historical costumers, you tend to focus on the main part of a new costume – the dress. I know I do. Sure, you give a thought to the corset; maybe even make a new one which we know is the substance for a well-presented silhouette. Then you follow with Read More...

Reducing Petticoat Layers So Your Waist Looks Small

Those of us who make Victorian dresses are all after one particular feature – a small waist. We do this primarily through corset cinching but also a visual trick with wide sleeves and full skirts. Another hidden method is to reduce the amount of fabric layers around your waist, specifically on skirt layers. When you Read More...

When Your Bustle Poufs Just Don’t Lay Right

The event was lovely. Everyone was perfectly attired in their best bustle wear. Laughter resounded throughout the night, goodies were consumed with delight and smiles were shared for hours. Then you get home and upload the pictures to your laptop…. Oi! “Why didn’t anyone tell me my bustle was protruding from my left hip?! I Read More...