This tutorial is dedicated to Corinne Pleger who taught me the beauty of cartridge pleating in July 2000. Cartridge pleats are eye-catching! Neat little pleats stacked in a row, stitched together and standing at attention. Those little pleats do a heck of job too with getting an enormous amount of skirt fabric into a tiny Read More...
Tag: 1840s
A Look at an Original 1840s Corded Petticoat
Many years ago I started researching corded petticoats. It all began because I wanted to make an 1830s dress and needed the proper silhouette underneath. There wasn’t much information out there. But I picked up bits and pieces and started to put together what they really were and how they were made. Then I started Read More...
Matching Stripes on a Bodice
Stripes are awesome! (if you don’t know). And they rule fantastic designs throughout the 19th Century. What if you love stripes but the matching part terrifies you? You avoid sewing with beautiful linear patterns because you think the Stripe Matching Game is beyond your reach. I can assure you it’s not. It’s a matter of Read More...
5 Tips to Keep Your Cartridge Pleats from Looking Like Gathers
I hate cartridge pleats! Box pleats, fine! Knife pleats, piece of cake, but gauging? Looks like I gathered it & slapped it on. What am I doing wrong? ~ Sylvia Shope Byers Sylvia’s frustration was pouring through her Facebook message. “I’m trying to make them small and lovely, but I might be making them too Read More...
19th C. Pocket Solutions Because You Have to Put Your iPhone Somewhere
Hidden pockets. Wide pockets. Tiny pockets. Welt pockets. Watch pockets. Patch pockets. Pockets with flaps. Pockets in seams. Decorative pockets and functional pockets. Inside pockets. Breast pockets. Back pockets. It truly is amazing the variety and locations of pockets in 19th Century clothing! For easy reference, let’s look at where our ancestors carried personal Read More...
Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers
If you’re at all like most historical costumers, you tend to focus on the main part of a new costume – the dress. I know I do. Sure, you give a thought to the corset; maybe even make a new one which we know is the substance for a well-presented silhouette. Then you follow with Read More...
Reducing Petticoat Layers So Your Waist Looks Small
Those of us who make Victorian dresses are all after one particular feature – a small waist. We do this primarily through corset cinching but also a visual trick with wide sleeves and full skirts. Another hidden method is to reduce the amount of fabric layers around your waist, specifically on skirt layers. When you Read More...
How To Finish Your Skirt Hems For The Most Support
All the Victorians did it. They knew what to do to keep clothes lasting longer. They finagled fabric and thread until it gave them the silhouette they wanted. One of the best things they utilized was the method of using a second or third layer of fabric to stiffen a particular area of a Read More...