How To Make an 1870s Bustle Skirt
In this video tutorial you’ll learn how to create a bustle pouf from the skirt back panel. Although an 1870s skirt is shown here, the technique can be used for 1880s bustles as well.
Following the video check out the photos for a more detailed look at what you learned in the video.
Showing the side seam pleats.
Side seam pleats pinned in place
You can see here two safety pins marking where to pin the back panel to the tape inside.
Safety pin markings to indicate where to attach to the tapes
The side view of the pinned bustle:
Side view of the pinned side pleats and bustled back
The back view of the pouf-y bustle:
Back view of the bustled back panel
Inside view of pin pleated bustle:
View of the inside showing how the tapes hang down and the skirt fabric pinned to them
The twill tape holding the bustle poufs:
Closer view of the skirt pinned to the tapes on the inside
{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }
Thank you so much for this tutorial, all I could find on other websites were patterns for sale ! Very helpful!
Do you have a tutorial on how to make a bustle pad for an 1880′s dress?
Not yet, Kathy. But a bustle pad is simply a small pillow. You can cut it into a half-moon shape with a straight edge on top and stuff it. But don’t stuff too much! A little can go a long ways. Bind the top edge and add tie strings or stitch into a petticoat waistband. My own pad I’ve added organza ruffles to the top side before stuffing for even more fluff and prettiness.
In the tutorial you mentioned the panel had pins placed at specific points already to pin the skirt to. How did you arrive at these measurements? How do you transfer the temporary waist band and gathers onto a permenent band? are the other 5 skirt panels just straight pieces ? or are they tapered so the hem is wide and the waist is less? Thanks for the help
melody
The marks/pins on the skirt back panel are in 3 even columns (center back and one one each side half way to the side seam). The spacing between the pins varies as to how you want your poufs to look. I like mine between 8″ and 14″. Also, the center column pins are off set from the identical outside columns. They usually start lower and go further down OR just the opposite where the top pin is higher. The lovely thing about this method is that it’s so adjustable to the look you want and the fabric you have.
As for the other skirt panels, I recommend getting a basic bustle skirt pattern (Truly Victorian is my favorite) that’ll have the panels drafted for you. (No need to reinvent the wheel – use what’s already there). They are shaped with one straight edge that is seamed to an angled side of the joining pattern.
Waistband: unpin the temporary one if you have it and re-pleat or gather up to fit the back of your fashion fabric waistband which is cut to your waist measurement (over corset).
You’ll also find more info on bustle pleats here: http://historicalsewing.com/bustle-poufs-dont-lay-right
This is a very helpful tutorial as I am just getting into historical costuming and sewing. The tutorial doesn’t mention stitching where the pins are. Would this be the next step in finishing the bustle?
Yes. After you pin the fabric to the tapes underneath, tack them together either by hand or machine. This keeps your poufs in place.
Wow, thank you so much! I’ve been watching this tutorial for a while now, and yesterday I made the most amazing bustle skirt on my very first try! It was so easy using your very wonderful tutorial. The only thing that gave me a little trouble was where to put the markings on the fabric and how far apart the safety pins on the inside strips should be placed. It was easy to adjust, though.
Since I’m a total beginner, I did not really knot how to make the rest of the skirt historically accurate. I made (and ironed) large, flat creases in front and pleated the side panels to fit my waistband. Hopefully it won’t make me look like a n00b when I use it.
I was also wondering what an appropriate bodice or blouse for this skirt might look like. Is there anything special I should keep in mind/avoid?
Again, thank you SO much for this! You are amazing!
Thanks V! So happy you were able to make a bustled skirt as a newbie. Congrats! For bodices and designs, read up on my Bustle Era article. Then start viewing my Pinterest board to get a feel for the bodice styling.
Thank you so much! I hit sewers block on my 1870′s costume and this just gave me an idea.
I love this skirt! I am a total novice when it comes to sewing and I’m a little nervous anpbout trying my hand at costuming but this tutorial make it look easy. I was just wondering how far apart to mark the side pleats?
You want them relatively deep – marks 3″ to 5″ apart – to start. But that’s just a suggestion. Play with them and your fabric to see the depth that lays the best for you.
Well I am only 16, and I’m definitely no historical costume designer, but I ADORE the way women from the mid-1800′s dressed. And I am aiming to create a dress, similar to those dresses (maybe toned down a bit for increased productivity, because I might not fit in the car, and what-have-you) just to wear around town, and basically wherever I wish, because I am not self-conscious. But I am now curious as to whether there are others like me who make these dresses just to wear and not for any special occasions……are there?
P.S: the tutorial was VERY helpful. Thank you
Oh! and how would you make this type of bustle?
http://www.etsy.com/listing/126249652/tardis-blue-black-and-white-full-bustle?ref=shop_home_feat