Reproducing a Late 1830s Pleated Sleeve

One of the most fun projects that I’ve had the chance to bring to life is a reproduction of a late 1830s dress held at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Having sewn 1830s garments before, the bodice and skirt seemed rather easy to me. But the sleeves were where the fun began. Besides the museum Read More...

Reducing Petticoat Layers So Your Waist Looks Small

Those of us who make Victorian dresses are all after one particular feature – a small waist. We do this primarily through corset cinching but also a visual trick with wide sleeves and full skirts. Another hidden method is to reduce the amount of fabric layers around your waist, specifically on skirt layers. When you Read More...

Sifting Through Endless Edwardian Patterns

With all the fervor surrounding the centennial celebrations of the Titanic sinking, statehoods for Arizona & New Mexico, the Girl Scouts and LL Bean, and many other Edwardian events, I wanted to put together a list of clothing patterns available. Please note that this list is certainly not exhaustive. I only want to give a Read More...

When Your Bustle Poufs Just Don’t Lay Right

The event was lovely. Everyone was perfectly attired in their best bustle wear. Laughter resounded throughout the night, goodies were consumed with delight and smiles were shared for hours. Then you get home and upload the pictures to your laptop…. Oi! “Why didn’t anyone tell me my bustle was protruding from my left hip?! I Read More...

Demystifying Bustle Skirt Poufs

If you’ve never made a bustle dress they can look quite intimidating. The complicated fabrics swirling every which direction; the tightly-fitted bodice with a tail that floats on the skirt; the trimming that knocks you sideways with its complexity. But under it all are actually some basic shapes. Drill down and that skirt is just Read More...

A Stroll Thru a French Jardin

Fashion Plate from La Mode Illustree, circa 1886 These lovely ladies are wearing such confections I just had to share! Since I don’t have the original magazine issue with the description of the plate I’ll list my own suggestions for how to make these costumes yourself. Read More...

Where the Dickens is That Pattern List?

The autumn season is creeping up upon us here in the Northern Hemisphere. (Yay!!) And as cooler weather events start being organized and hosted, I’m sure many Dickens’ Fairs will be included. And don’t forget Christmas caroling and outdoor walks through state parks. When I think of these activities with my costume mind I usually Read More...

Just Keep Ruching, Ruching, Ruching…. The 1873 Blackberry Cream Dress

It’s not exactly swimming but I feel I’ve been drowning under miles of lavender taffeta. The 1873 purple gown is made of awesome ruched panels that are glorious in all their puffiness. You’d think running a few rows of basting stitches then pulling them up and sewing down to a base wouldn’t be all that hard. Hard, Read More...