Flipping through the stack of (digital) fashion plates, I was enthralled by so many ideas for how to decorate an Early Victorian Bonnet. I was doing trim research last summer to complete my poke bonnet for Costume College and fell in love even more with this lesser-known era.
Taken from period publications, early photographs and surviving pieces, here are 25 ideas and tips on how to trim your bonnets from 1837 to 1855.
For your artificial trimmings such as flowers and leaves, you want to look for natural-looking materials. I mean, use common sense and avoid ornamentation that screams “I’m made of plastic.” Anything too shiny is probably too modern for historical wear.
Same thing goes for your fabrics and laces – stay away from nylon and gleaming polyesters. Although, you can find some really great ribbons and other trims out there that are fabricated so well, the non-natural content is secondary to the period look you’re going for. Unless you have a budget for silk and cotton netting, lace, ribbons and fabrics, keep an open mind for using synthetic trims – do your research, maintain your patience and be discerning.
1. Drawn bonnets in all colors of silk need very little additional trim as the ruched fabric over the reeds creates a unique look on its own. Try two different materials, like silk and heavy lace, to interchange when making up a drawn bonnet.
2. Grape bunches, berry clusters, vines and ferns – small bouquets tacked on the outside at ear level, or with the vines, trail them up and over the top of the crown
3. Waterlilies, blades of grass and sprays of small flowers; small clusters of flowers and leaves
4. Hummingbirds, butterflies or other small flying creatures (but stay away from the insects as they are mostly found in late Victorian trimming)
5. Bonnet ribbons placed around the top of the crown and falling to the mid-back with tassels on the ends
6. Medium width to wide ribbons in satin, plain silks or corded (like grosgrain) with plaid, floral and stripe designs – ribbons criss-cross over the top part of the bonnet going from bottom of tip, diagonally over the top and down to the brim
7. Bows of ribbon or fabric of all sizes – tack in a few places around the bonnet
8. Blonde or black lace – tacked around the tip and laying across the crown, or tacked to the crown and laying over the brim
9. Velvet or velveteen to match the dress – a period accessory choice good for winter
10. A “Velvet and lace bonnet” – for example, blue velvet covering and black lace
11. Light colored bonnets (white, pink or blue) with dark trims such as jet or black lace
12. Two colored bonnet – for example, white plush brim with purple velvet crown
13. Heavy ostrich or bird-of-paradise plumes – dripping down from one or both crown sides or turning away from the crown – Think 3-D and have the plume tips just brush the shoulders.
14. Pleated or ruched fabric (cut on the bias) or wide strips of fabric draped over the crown/brim join
15. Embroidered fabric or lace for brim coverings and the curtain/bavolet
16. Small flowers and lace on inside of crown framing the face around the top, or at the ear and cheek level
17. Tiny fringe, lace, pleated fabric or other trim along the outer edge of the brim
18. Ribbon Treatments: pinked, scalloped, tiny rolled hem, or finished with narrow bias, cartridge, knife, or box pleats
19. Bonnet tie ribbons that are narrow and short and tie directly under the chin falling to about bust level
20. Pleated ribbon flowers or bows attached to the bonnet at the crown/tip area with the ribbon ends falling to the shoulders
21. Lace lappets attached to the top of the crown and falling to the shoulders
22. Silk chiffon veils in white, black or colors for riding
23. Lace veils attached to the crown and falling forward over the edge of the brim (This is a period form of blocking the sun from the eyes.)
24. Bonnet ties attached to the brim points or set further back on the inside of the brim where the crown and curtain/bavolet meet
25. Bias strips, tiny braid, or small berries running around the entire outside brim
What have you used to trim your Early Victorian Bonnets?
Braided trims look great with both satins and velvets. I find that I often simply use more of one of the base fabrics used to cover a hat form, but I use them in different ways such as fashioning a rose from velvet or satin over an ear or on a brim, or folding small pieces of fabric (squares folded to hide raw edges and applied in a row around a brim or in place of a hat b and, or small circles stuffed with cotton balls and clustered like grapes or berries as a focal point or to add interest to another trim. Small fabric strips can be gathered and used to cover a hat entirely to give textural interest to humble woven goods. Finished or raw edges, raw edges frayed to make fringe, pinked edges, turned and stitched edges and many more treatments can elevate the possibilities in all sorts of fabrics. . Simply taking a look through a creative lens at what you have on hand, fiddling and playing with the bits and pieces can spawn some awesome trims. Fold, twist, gather, bunch, and play with your scraps, and you will be amazed at what you can make for trims and accents! And lastly, modern silk flowers can be given a vintage look by dipping them in or spraying them with strong tea or coffee or diluted Kool Aid or Jello can add a great deal of old style appeal to modern products. There used to be a spray-on commercial product available at craft stores for that purpose in a translucent brown-green color that did the trick beautifully but it has disappeared. I have even been known to use things like mustard to give something a pleasing yellow color. Most important… Have Fun!
What wonderful ideas! I think you just inspired me for trim on my next hat. 🙂
It is very hard to find Millinery Fruit, and what is out there is not suitable you can tell it’s from the 30’s or 40’s
What if the bonnet is a straw bonnet and already have the ribbon around the crown and to tie with? How do you decorate it then??? I am a bit without knowledge of how to do it, its for an autumn bonnet for the Bath-festival (Jane Austen Festival) Please I need help!
By the way it is some nice photos and a great article!
Hi Sophia,
Leave the ribbon on it and add either more ribbon shaped into a bow or flowers at the ear level. Simply tack them right over the ribbon. Small ostrich feathers look great too tucked into the ribbon band with the bases covered with the bow or flowers. Make one side your focus with a larger amount of flowers/ribbon/feathers. You can add a smaller amount to the other side or leave plain.
Your dress is lovely! And your muff is oh-so appropriate. Good job.
I’ve reposted your photo link below so others can see your work. Thanks for sharing!
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1773174411460&set=a.1685878669121.2095830.1302298156
Above is a link to my finished gown! It’s my facebook album which I made open to everyone to look at. The image I linked to is a pic of my original drawing and the finished product. Thank you for all your help!
Velvet trim would look wonderful for a winter look. If you decide on a ruched brim lining, make sure you cut your fabric wide and long enough to cover it when gathered up.
And you wouldn’t have to, but feathers are everywhere on bonnets of this era. They can be matching or complimentary to your velvet.
Can’t wait to see your outfit!
This is just what I needed! I ordered a simple (cheap) bonnet that will be here Thursday. Do you think I could do a ruched interior on it? Which of these numbers would you suggest? I like #9 (velvet) trim. 🙂