Not Your Grandma’s Nightgown

Don’t think for a minute that Victorian undies are frumpy. I’m talking about late Victorian chemises here. They’re not some long, plain gown with no trim, a conservative cut and b-o-r-i-n-g.

I hope your frillies make you feel confident. They should because that’s where your time travel begins – when you first throw that chemise over your head. Welcome to the past.

Do you want to make and wear fabulous looking 19^th Century clothing? Then begin with what touches the skin.

If you’re sewing a new ensemble from an era you’ve done before, there usually isn’t a need for a new chemise unless the look of your dress garments will be affected. In other words, a sleeveless chemise is necessary under a ball gown but is still ok under a day dress.

But maybe you just want some new underwear.  Who doesn’t? Sometimes all you want to do is make a closet full of Victorian frillies. A chemise, being the most basic of undergarments, is a good place to build your skill and add feminine frills.

Even if you don’t care about your historical underwear, you’ll still need to put in some effort on the chemise – 3 to 5 hours should do it.

For the majority of your historical wardrobe, you can get by with a basic chemise – simple front and back, both cut on the fold at center and finished with or without sleeves.

When traveling to a new time period, you want to keep that silhouette in mind so you can sew a chemise that will protect your corset and bodice as well as hide under the garment edges (neckline and sleeves).

For a comfortable chemise undergarment, try 100% cotton or linen.

I’m serious! If you’ve never worn delicate linen undergarments under a heavy Civil War dress, you are missing the comfort! The cheat here is to use a pattern reflective of the mid-to-late 1800s and trim it as such too.

• Use handkerchief linen
• Cut chemise with a yoke and short, straight sleeves (both only if desired)
• Use French or flat-felled seams
• Use cotton lace and flat trims for the yoke, neckline and sleeves
• Embroider the yoke/neckline and sleeve hems

There! Doesn’t that sound lovely and cool!

Not to leave you hanging, here are 3 pattern options to make your frilly 19^th Century underwear.

Truly Victorian:  #102 Chemise & Drawers

Laughing Moon:  #100 Ladies Victorian Underwear

Past Patterns:  #707 1850-70 Two Chemises

What do you think of this vital garment in your time-traveling trunk?