If you’ve worn a corset you know it….
THAT LINE! That horrible, awful line. That ridge that sticks out in front of you like a power boat pushing through the water creating a wall of water around its bow. It’s nearly as bad as obvious hoop lines.
Ugh…
So what can you do next time to avoid this from happening? Try these 3 tips.
1. The Corset is Too Tall
One primary cause of a corset ridge around the bust line is because the corset is too tall for the person wearing it. The top is cut straight around and is generally a good cut, but that edge comes too much up past the bust apex and doesn’t curve back around the curvature of the flesh.
Now, we see loads of original corsets, and even have modern reproduction patterns, that allow for the front of the corset to come up over the bust – higher than the apex. And this is ok.
But if that corset is made to cover some of the top of the bust then it better curve close to the body. If it doesn’t – Corset Ridge City!
The solution here is 1) to make sure that curve at the very top is in fact a curve to hug the bust, or 2) cut the top of the corset down to where it ends *at* apex level. (This may be adjusted slightly higher or lower depending on how your particular body is shaped.)
2. The Corset is Too Big
Toothpaste. That’s what happens when a corset is worn. Your body becomes like toothpaste in a rigid tube. If that tube is too tight the paste (flesh) gets pushed out the end (top and bottom of corset). This, within reason of course, is what we want as it helps give the hourglass silhouette.
However, if the corset is too big around the top of the figure the flesh merely sits in the binding with no tightness to help give that lift. The bust falls down into the corset instead of being held up in place.
This is the second major cause of a corset ridge. To fix this, the corset panels need to be smaller around the entire corset. Keep them small enough to hold the flesh in place, but large enough to not produce “spillage” (a whole other issue!).
3. Wear a Corset Cover
A final solution if you simply cannot alter your corset just yet is to wear a corset cover. Depending on your time period, they can be plain like a simple under bodice, or fancy with ruffles and trim to support the silhouette.
This isn’t the end-all solution but will assist enough that you don’t feel like that power boat on the lake.
Have you discovered other solutions to hiding a corset ridge line? Or perhaps you’ve utilized these tips before and noticed a difference. Tell us your experience below.
I always wear a corset cover, it just feels as natural a part of dressing in my Victorian or Edwardian garb as petticoats. However, I like them to stop just short of the waist, to keep the waist small and tight (as much as possible I stagger my layers to avoid building up bulk at the waist, wearing the petticoats about an inch below the waist, etc).
I agree with Julie. I look for a corset ridge( I was taught this in grad school), as it would be part of the physical culture. Yes, you want to minimize the front as much as possible, but you will never fully erase the ridge in back, and you shouldn’t want to.
The other day when I was getting dressed in modern clothes I noticed that I had bra ridge, corset ridges daughter. That just reminded me that even though we are striving to re-create perfect visions of the past (usually from wonderful fashion plates) our historical re-creations will exist in the real world.
Very true! Makes you wonder if 200 years from now if people will re-create early 2000s fashion and show bra lines….
I’m not a historical costume wearer, more of a fantasy cosplayer, but I do wear corsets (surprisingly often – even under ‘normal’ clothing) and, too, have noticed the issue with the visible line. Being a well endowed lady in the bust area I find spillage a larger issue – in order to prevent the line, I have to tighten the bust and end up with flattened breasts and spillage. I like the comment above about wearing multiple laces – I think I shall try 3 ‘sections’ of lacing – bust, waist and hip. I wonder if it is worth sewing a drawstring into the top of the corset to gently shape it into the bust?
I have also found that on Victorian corsets, that little tie in the front at the top edge will often just pull everything together just enough to turn an okay fit into a good fit. Now I always make sure I add ribbon ties to the top–makes such a difference!
I read and implemented a ribbon through the top binding secured at the back and pulling up a little slack at the front does indeed make a big difference.
Hi Jennifer
Absolutely love your blogs!!
As a museum costumer, I have to say that seeing the corset ridge doesn’t bother me as much because it at least tells me the individual is wearing a corset. When I visited Connor Prairie Museum in Indiana, I was delighted to observe that every single female staff or volunteer interpreter wore a corset, as evidenced by their ridges.
And, of course, many CDVs show that ridge, so obviously it was a problem back then, too (much like the dreaded muffin top today with ill-fitting bras). I do agree that a better fir or padding will help a lot & I wear a corset cover.
Hi, Jennifer. This is a definite problem for me. I feel like the Queen Mary coming into port. My corset fits everywhere else, but the cup… So, it is pad it up or tighten …
Thank you for this article!
Corset too big…don’t be embarrassed to add some padding to enhance your assets and give you lift. Where do you think the idea for padded bras came from.
I used Six different laces in mine so I can fine-tune and adjust the places that need to be tightened or loosened…my bust is smaller than my hips, so I tightened the top lace of my corset to fix the gap. Now it’s snug at the bust and still fits the rest of my torso.
By the way, your website has been SUCH a help for me–I’m in civil war reenacting because my husband is..and I couldn’t sew a button when we got married 4 years ago!! I now have begun tackling my own dresses because I got tired of ill-fitting garments that someone else made. 🙂 thanks again for all the informative articles that even novices can understand!
Yay! You are very welcome Amanda!