The Slipstitch
Slipstitched hem
The slipstitch is a finishing stitch. Use it to hem garments with regular fold-up hems and for attaching the bias to the inside of necklines, waist edges, and sleeve/skirt/pant hems. You can also use a slipstitch to attach flat ribbons and trim to the top side of a garment.
However, the slipstitch is one of the most difficult to fine-tune. It takes a steady hand to make slipstitches truly invisible on the outside of your project. Strive for excellence!
The hem is pressed up and small stitches tack the fold to the fabric.
This is a slipstitched folded hem. The part folded up on the right shows the correct side of the fabric and the tiny points of thread. Note: the example was stitched with a reverse thread color (white) to show you where the stitch is. You want to use an appropriate thread color to hide your stitches. 
- Secure your thread to the back side of your folded-up bias/hem facing/hem. Take a stitch into the main garment, picking up only a thread or two of fabric.
Picking up a thread or two of the fabric
Here you can see the needle picking up only a thread or two of the fabric. This is the part of the stitch that shows on the correct side of the garment. Keep the section small!
The stitches of the finished hem as seen on the inside
- Place your needle again to the back side of the folded hem/bias/facing near your last stitch and run it through the fold. (This can vary from 1/8” up to ¾” depending on the types of fabrics you are using, the strength of the stitch needed, and your particular sewing style.)
Slipstitch through the hem fold
You can see the needle has picked up a thread or two of fabric and then was pushed through the fold of the hem to form the stitch. After you pull the thread through the fold, take up another thread of fabric across from where the needle came out of the fold.
- Again, take a thread or two of fabric from the main garment piece and run the needle through the fold a second time.
This stitch on the correct side of the garment only shows the few threads of fabric you picked up with your needle.
Below: Top shows the inside hem and the bottom is what you can see on the outside.
Slip stitches inside on a tiny hem
Outside view of a narrow slipstitched hem
In some fabrics, you may need to take up more fabric threads for security. If you are hemming a skirt train, make your stitches close together. For very curved necklines, your closer stitches will help “bend” or ease your bias facing easier around the curve.
{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }
I remember agonizing over this stitch in HomeEc eons ago. We did it on gingham to help gauge our stitch length. I must have had to take mine efforts out a dozen times before I got it right but have I ever used this stitch through my life.
I was actually looking at some handmade curtains yesterday and was in awe of the awesome slipstitch my friend did. Now I know how to do it! This is a fabulous tutorial, thank you so much.
The slipstitch is one of my favorite hemming stitches. This is one of the best tutorials I’ve seen online for it. Very well done.
I have always loved the slip stitch, it was the first stitch I mastered in home ec, now sadly many of my projects don’t require it…. I will have to make sure I do more hand sewing, thanks for the inspiration.
My mom made little girls pinafore dresses for my cousin when she was little (and also sold them on eBay). When she passed away she left a dress that was almost finished. I have been wanting to finish the dress but did not know how she managed this “invisible” stitch. Now I do. Thanks so much.
love the clear instructions.. very well explained thank you
This is the first hand stitch I learned as a little girl. A few years later I began making clothes for my little sisters and also for their dolls. I am retired now and I quilt rather than sew. I bet my slip stitch looks just awful now days. Ha! Thanks for sharing. Maybe I should sew something for the grands just to stay in practice.
Yes you should Rose! Or better yet, teach your young family members how to sew.
Pass the craft along!