Comments on: Working with Mockups

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Mon, 31 Jul 2023 02:10:15 +0000

In reply to Tabitha. Stretch satin will be a challenge! You might look at a lightweight denim/chambray that has spandex in it. Or even a garment cotton that is listed as "stretch".

By: Tabitha

Tabitha — Sun, 30 Jul 2023 03:52:48 +0000

Do you have a suggestion for what type of fabric to use to mock-up a dress that will be made out of stretch satin? I’ve never made a mock-up before or sewn with satin. Thank you!

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Wed, 20 Oct 2021 17:33:25 +0000

In reply to Sam B.

Wow – good for you for figuring it out and taking time to fix! And yeah… will agree with you to prewash even mockup fabric if one thinks it will be used in the final garment.

By: Sam B

Sam B — Mon, 18 Oct 2021 03:25:16 +0000

I made my first Victorian bodice (circa 1880) last year using a stiff muslin as a mock-up, which went so well (and I was in a hurry) that I pulled out the basting and used it for my flat-lining. The project went together really well, and I finished in time for the event! After a second wearing, I decided to spot-clean the bodice to freshen it up–the outer fabric was completely washable, but the seams were still raw–and the bodice developed some weird wrinkles where it got wet. The more I pressed it (with a steam iron) the worse the wrinkles got. I thought maybe the fashion fabric was some weird mystery synthetic, until I realized that the lining was tight while the outer fabric bunched up between the seams and darts. Then I realized:
My lining had shrunk! and guessing from how stiff the leftover muslin was, it might have even been severely starched and stretched when I got it. It took months to puzzle this out and a few more months to get up the courage to fix it, I slashed the front darts on the fold, stopping an inch from the point, marked all the darts OUTSIDE with a sewing marker, then took out ALL the stitches except the buttonholes and placket. After a thorough pressing of both lining and outer fabric, I hand-basted the lining in, keeping a close eye on the under-arm seam allowances (already trimmed). At most of the seams, the lining was a quarter-inch smaller than the outer fabric. Then I reassembled the entire thing, using the markings to show me where my darts were. Except for putting the sleeves in wrong once (since all my notches were trimmed off) it went together pretty well, just in time to wear it for the same event this year!
Lesson learned: if the mock-up has any chance of being used for the lining, I will always pre-wash it…probably twice.

By: The Biggest Mistake Costumers Make – Historical Sewing

The Biggest Mistake Costumers Make – Historical Sewing — Thu, 30 Sep 2021 23:19:21 +0000

[…] takes time and sometimes multiple mockups. Set yourself apart in the costuming realm by not making the mistake of rushing through the […]

By: Podcast 002: The Process of Creativity

Podcast 002: The Process of Creativity — Tue, 02 Oct 2018 18:20:05 +0000

[…] –Mockup and fitting articles […]

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Sun, 04 Feb 2018 22:30:00 +0000

In reply to Lauren. So happy you are pushing your skills and making a mockup! Yes, you will learn from even the basic muslin one you have. In a two-piece sleeve the inner seam lands about 3" up to the front from the lowest, bottom-most point on the bodice. (In Victorian bodices the side seam may or may not be at this lowest point.) I look at that seam placement first and pin around (underneath) to the back then fit the gathers/pleats or the ease in the sleeve head to what's left of the armhole. The back sleeve seam may or may not line up with the side back or shoulder seam. It's all in however it fits YOU. There's no definite match point here on the back. For the sleeve head excess my post on how to deal with that will be helpful to you. And best of luck!!

By: Lauren

Lauren — Sat, 03 Feb 2018 17:57:56 +0000

We are about to fit my first mockuo ever. I wish I had read this helpful post first and gotten some poplin to imitate the fashion fabric instead of the muslin I used. Should I start over completely or is there anything to be learned from trying to fit the muslin version?

I also am quite confused by the two part sleeves and how the seam placement should fall. The only pattern direction was that the inner arm seam should match to a notch. There was quite a lot of extra fabric in the sleeve (the sleeve is a less fitted style) to be massaged around the shoulder hole and the outer seams could end up just about anywhere. I assume I should aim for the center back of the arm and clip a placement notch for that outer into the mockup?