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Comments on: How to Flatline a Bodice https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice 19th Century Costuming for Those Who Dream of the Past Tue, 24 Dec 2024 18:54:26 +0000 hourly 1 By: Jennifer Rosbrugh https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-2#comment-273005 Tue, 24 Dec 2024 18:54:26 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-273005 In reply to Isabelle De Clercq.

Your second scenario. You sew the left bodice front fashion fabric to left side underlining fabric to finish the front edge. Press and fold underlining back so wrong sides are together. Repeat for the right front bodice pieces. It will look like a finished front along the center front opening edge of both left and right sides. Then baste the two layers together (the left front and right front), with serging if desired around the un-sewn edges.

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By: Isabelle De Clercq https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-2#comment-272987 Mon, 23 Dec 2024 14:48:09 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-272987 Hello Jennifer

I do not understand this part very well:

[–> My favorite modern shortcut technique is finishing the center front (or back) edge during the flatlining stage. It is, however, based on period construction. The center front edge is finished (sewn) *before* the underlining is attached to the fabric.

Right sides together, sew the fashion fabric center front to the underlining. Do this for both left and right sides. Press flat, grade the seam, clip at the curves, turn and press the seam flat.]

Do you sew the the two fabric fronts first together and then to the underlining ?

Or

Do you sew with an ordinary stitch (not the serger) the fabric fashion fabric front to the underlining each? So you have two pieces of the front (fabric and underlining)? Then using the serger to finish the seam?

Or do you mean something else :-)? I do not understand it completely probably because English is not my native language. Sorry for this.

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By: Jennifer Rosbrugh https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-2#comment-270448 Fri, 12 Jul 2024 01:29:01 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-270448 In reply to Robin.

Yes, you could cut open the dart take-up and press it open to reduce bulk in the layers of the fashion fabric and underlining.

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By: Robin https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-2#comment-270429 Thu, 11 Jul 2024 04:00:34 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-270429 Hello there! This is some very good information. I am attempting to make a piece with flat lining and I just want to make sure I understand this correctly because I am very new to tailoring. So, the dart should be the thickness of four layers? The shell and the flat lining folded on each other. Seems like it could be quite bulky- is there a way to try and reduce potential bulk? If it’s a fisheye dart snip in the middle to relieve tension? And iron the dart down? Thank you so so much! I am very excited to get to work!

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By: Jennifer Rosbrugh https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-2#comment-261583 Sat, 11 Dec 2021 18:39:06 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-261583 In reply to Johnette Williams.

If the canvas isn’t too heavy it could be used for the bodice panels, but not for the sleeves. I’d recommend cotton organdy for the sleeves; or even a couple layers of poly organza would work for short budget. The muslin *might* work in the sleeves depending on your fashion fabric. Layer some swatches to see how your interlinings and fashion fabrics work together.

You do NOT need hair canvas. But using stiff organdy is a nice alternative for tailored collars and cuffs. And yes, avoid any fusible materials/interfacings. As another alternative, use the muslin but starch it well. Dip starch is best for stiffness, but a spray will work too (and easier to find).

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By: Johnette Williams https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-2#comment-261581 Sat, 11 Dec 2021 03:58:13 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-261581 Im trying to work with a very strict budget. So muslin is on the list, so thats one question answered, but can i use cotton canvas,
Im primarily wearing 1890’s but im lost for a underlinging/interlining. I know canvas comes in many weights, its cheapest for me but i dont know if it will work. Is it too flimsy or too stiff or does it depend on the weight?

Can i use it in place of hair canvas for tailoring needs? Or do i ABSOLUTELY need hair for tailoring? (Im REALLY trying to avoid fusible as ive heard horror stories and hair is hugely expensive for me, and i want to wash when i can, so canvas is looking the like the best option for me)

Is it historically accurate? Is it accurate for the lower end of the working class? Im really trying to not spend a ton of money on the inter layers, but i want to look to the best of my abilities.

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By: 1844 Striped Summer Dress – Historical Sewing https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-1#comment-260998 Fri, 20 Aug 2021 23:12:46 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-260998 […] Because I changed the grain slightly from what the pattern listed I had to make two mockups – the first, straight from the pattern, and the second following my new grainlines to fine tune any areas. The bias front pieces were stabilized with on-grain pieces in the flatlining stage. […]

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By: More Dirndl Goodness – Historical Sewing https://historicalsewing.com/how-to-flatline-bodice/comment-page-1#comment-258489 Fri, 01 May 2020 01:57:27 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=6935#comment-258489 […] Flatlining and underlining […]

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