<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t think for a minute that Victorian undies are frumpy. I\u2019m talking about late Victorian chemises here. They\u2019re not some long, plain gown with no trim, a conservative cut and b-o-r-i-n-g.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I hope your frillies make you feel confident. They should because that\u2019s where your time travel begins \u2013 when you first throw that chemise over your head. Welcome to the past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do you want to make and wear fabulous looking 19^{th<\/sup> Century clothing? Then begin with what touches the skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n}

If you\u2019re sewing a new ensemble from an era you\u2019ve done before, there usually isn\u2019t a need for a new chemise unless the look of your dress garments will be affected. In other words, a sleeveless chemise is necessary under a ball gown but is still ok under a day dress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But maybe you just want some new underwear.\u00a0 Who doesn\u2019t? Sometimes all you want to do is make a closet full of Victorian frillies. A chemise, being the most basic of undergarments, is a good place to build your skill and add feminine frills. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even if you don\u2019t care about your historical underwear, you\u2019ll still need to put in some effort on the chemise \u2013 3 to 5 hours should do it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the majority of your historical wardrobe, you can get by with a basic chemise \u2013 simple front and back, both cut on the fold at center and finished with or without sleeves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When traveling to a new time period, you want to keep that silhouette in mind so you can sew a chemise that will protect your corset and bodice as well as hide under the garment edges (neckline and sleeves).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For a comfortable chemise undergarment, try 100% cotton or linen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m serious! If you\u2019ve never worn delicate linen undergarments under a heavy Civil War dress, you are missing the comfort! The cheat here is to use a pattern reflective of the mid-to-late 1800s and trim it as such too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

• Use handkerchief linen<\/span><\/li>
• Cut chemise with a yoke and short, straight sleeves (both only if desired)<\/span><\/li>
• Use French or flat-felled seams<\/span><\/li>
• Use cotton lace and flat trims for the yoke, neckline and sleeves<\/span><\/li>
• Embroider the yoke\/neckline and sleeve hems<\/span><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

  There! Doesn\u2019t that sound lovely and cool!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

  Not to leave you hanging, here are 3 pattern options to make your frilly 19^{th<\/sup> Century underwear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n}

  Truly Victorian: \u00a0#102 Chemise & Drawers<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  Laughing Moon: \u00a0#100 Ladies Victorian Underwear<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  Past Patterns:  #707 1850-70 Two Chemises<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  What do you think of this vital garment in your time-traveling trunk?<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Don\u2019t think for a minute that Victorian undies are frumpy. I\u2019m talking about late Victorian chemises here. They\u2019re not some long, plain gown with no trim, a conservative cut and b-o-r-i-n-g. I hope your frillies make you feel confident. They should because that\u2019s where your time travel begins \u2013 when you first throw that chemise Read More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":455,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[115,116,118],"tags":[40,55,20,41],"class_list":["post-454","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-design-silhouette","category-fabrics-trims","category-pattern-tips","tag-chemise","tag-civil-war-2","tag-undergarments","tag-victorian"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/454","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/13"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=454"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/454\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12788,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/454\/revisions\/12788"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/455"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=454"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=454"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/historicalsewing.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=454"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}