Comments on: Why Sewing Trim to The Back of a Hem is a Good Thing

By: Sam Benton

Sam Benton — Wed, 08 Nov 2017 17:07:46 +0000

Is it just me, or does the right-most dress in the top image look a lot like the 1880 silver-blue gown from the LACMA 2011 museum display? down to the fringe trimming the overskirt. That’s like finding a fashion plate that looks just like Great-grandma’s wedding dress! 😀 Too funny!

By: Sam Benton

Sam Benton — Wed, 08 Nov 2017 16:38:52 +0000

Love this tip! My next project wasn’t going to have any lace, but I’m thinking some of the pleats might get sewn to the back of the fabric in this way (it would certainly take off the pressure to have the header looking perfect, lol).
Just for info, the lovely lace isn’t crochet, but torchon. Many manufacturers get the two mixed up and mislabel their wares, but the woven diamonds (or “spiders” or “eyes”) are the giveaway. By the Bustle Era, lace like this could be machine-made, making it far more affordable than fifty years earlier. The bars between the spiders resemble crochet, but are more braided vs crochet’s loops. Crocheted lace was often a homemade alternative to buying or making torchon lace, because all it required was thread and a fine steel hook…and many, many, many hours with nothing else to do 🙂

By: Cisca Elle

Cisca Elle — Fri, 12 May 2017 12:11:20 +0000

Thank you so much for this.I am about making a dress with fringe at the hem.

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Tue, 04 Oct 2016 16:59:46 +0000

In reply to Laurie H. That's a great book! This hem method is one for heirloom sewing and very much used in the Edwardian era. :-)

By: Laurie H

Laurie H — Tue, 04 Oct 2016 03:57:48 +0000

I recently read “Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques” which is text and figures (illustrations) that were originally published in 1905 by Butterick. There’s a great deal of discussion of hems, but one method surprised me. To add a ruffle to a finished hem, they said to cut open the very bottom edge of the fabric, lay the right side of the ruffle to the right side of the hem and stitch with a 1/4 inch allowance to the outside layer of the hem only. The raw edge of hem on the wrong side of the old hem is then turned up so there is no raw edge showing, and stitched. Basically, the raw edges are turned up toward each other with the ruffle sandwiched between.
So instead of ripping out a great lot of stitches, all you need to do is cut carefully! Though I think this would work best with a short ruffle; you might not want to change the length of the garment piece too much.

By: mary

mary — Wed, 28 Sep 2016 23:14:36 +0000

Nice! Can I use the zig zag stitch for a stretch polyester skirt and stiff Venice lace?

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Fri, 05 Jun 2015 04:11:51 +0000

In reply to Claire McQuarrie. Yay! Have fun Claire!

By: Claire McQuarrie

Claire McQuarrie — Fri, 05 Jun 2015 01:23:09 +0000

This article just gave me an idea to add a lilac colored lace trim to the bottom of my thrift store cotton white eyelet and embroidered skirt. I recently added a white ruffle to the bottom (mostly because it wasn’t long enough) and this would be a lovely touch of color to the bottom which I’ll use as my accent color for a summer Sunday afternoon promenade by the sea. I’ve just started sewing, after researching historical sewing. Now I’ve got a new hobby! I’m also looking for another evening dress to wear for the same event in Nahant, Mass this August. Thank you Jennifer!