Comments on: How To Grade Seam Allowances

By: Deborah J Sews | The Ava Sundress: Pictures to Supplement the Single Page of Instructions • Deborah J Sews

Wed, 22 May 2019 03:28:09 +0000

[…] 5 Align the waist pieces RST matching notches (along the side seams. The top and bottom edges will not line up.). Stitch with 1.5cm (5/8″) seam allowance. Repeat for the waist lining pieces. Press the seams open and grade the seam allowances. Here’s how to grade seam allowances. […]

By: Pattern Review: Truly Victorian Edwardian Undergarments

Pattern Review: Truly Victorian Edwardian Undergarments — Wed, 26 Sep 2018 00:34:19 +0000

[…] sewed the long edges and ends together, graded the seam and turned out. I pressed up a 1/2″ allowance on the facing side. Then I sewed the drawer legs […]

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Mon, 26 Mar 2018 19:31:59 +0000

In reply to Michaela Coy. I grade as usual the best I can. Some of the pleat layers will be trimmed the same. I'll make vertical cuts in the fold ends of the pleats to help me grade the layers. Even some grading will help with a flatter seam allowance within the waistband.

By: Michaela Coy

Michaela Coy — Mon, 26 Mar 2018 17:57:05 +0000

I’ve got a skirt that is two different skirts sewn together in the same waistband. Before I enclose the band it makes sense to grade the seam allowance, does it change it all that they are both pleated? Not pleated together, although I’m curious to know how you would do it if they were pleated together. Obviously there is a lot of bulk.

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Fri, 02 Mar 2018 00:09:38 +0000

In reply to Laurie H. You are absolutely correct. The longest side is the the one next to the fashion fabric (generally the fashion fabric part of the seam allowance.

By: Laurie H

Laurie H — Thu, 01 Mar 2018 22:59:24 +0000

Yay, it makes sense! Thank you! To clarify– when all the layers are graded and turned right way ’round, should the widest allowance end up closest to the fashion fabric? I think that’s what the examples show. And I think it would keep the layers from showing through. Is that right?

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Wed, 23 Aug 2017 21:25:10 +0000

In reply to K. Nothing wrong with zigzagging the edges! Depends on the fabric, really, as to how you treat the raw edges. This article might help you on that. But grading is best on seams that are enclosed - like collars, cuffs, hems with a separate facing, opening edges like plackets or bodice openings, etc.

By: K

Wed, 23 Aug 2017 18:02:46 +0000

Is there no risk for fraying? My old teacher insisted all edges must be zig-zagged to avoid fraying. Admittedly that was for regular dressmaking class, not historical, but I still hear her draconian voice in my head. Are you telling me I’ve been zig-zagging for nought?