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Comments on: Stop Wrestling With The Ruffles! https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles 19th Century Costuming for Those Who Dream of the Past Thu, 16 Jan 2025 20:32:09 +0000 hourly 1 By: Jennifer Rosbrugh https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-273308 Thu, 16 Jan 2025 20:32:09 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-273308 In reply to Isabelle De Clercq.

When I’ve used the ruffler foot, I set the pleating around 2.0. Next, I simply pleat the ruffle first, single layer. Then I pin and sew to the skirt. Although a ruffler foot can be used to ruffle AND sew on at the same time, I don’t use that method.

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By: Isabelle De Clercq https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-273307 Thu, 16 Jan 2025 19:31:23 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-273307 Hello Jennifer

I was wondering: for gathering you mention a ruffler foot as method D in Step 3. I have this foot too. But how do you match your skirt when using this method? You cannot know in advance how the pleats will work out? If you have tips, I would like to hear :-).

Kind regards
Isabelle

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By: Easy Machine Gathers https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-256659 Mon, 24 Jun 2019 15:51:29 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-256659 […] you’re making ruffles, my tips here for creating and gathering them will be of […]

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By: elizabeth https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-211331 Tue, 19 Jan 2016 01:46:23 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-211331 liquid stitch or even slightly water down tacky glue brush onto a clean, non fraying edge can keep it from falling apart. use it when i have over 200 feat of tiny ruffles for a cosplay.use the fold-casing for them and just glued the raw edged bottoms

im cheating with my petticoat for civil war reenactment and using nylon netting gathered on top of a cotton, ankle circle skirt.
it gives me the volume i need to i can wear fewer garments that can get tangled up and get very hot as i’m running on the field as a nurse, also less expensive being i’m a college student >_<
to at first glance it looks closer to accurate undergarments I put a single layer of slightly gather cotton over the top of the netting long enough to cover it. Its my first petticoat and im going without a pattern.
The netting or tulle works wonderfully though because theres no need to hem the edge. one simply cuts a length of the netting/tuller to twice the length they need the ruffle to be. fold in half. then baste stitch a 1/4-1/2 inch seam on the folded side of material.
i then thread a ribbon or smooth twine through the casing to easing arrange and pin the "ruffle" to the skirt base. After pinned well sew to skirt base.
cover if desired with fabric.
Its historically accurate in the least as far as i know but its turning out so much lighter but with all the volume i need.

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By: Passionate About Petticoats https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-210375 Thu, 10 Dec 2015 16:55:49 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-210375 […] corded, ruffled, trained, gored, tucked, paneled, shaped, tied – you name it. That extra petticoat or two […]

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By: womble https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-201377 Mon, 10 Aug 2015 10:43:04 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-201377 Having inherited a late Victorian sewing machine, I notice it came with an early ruffler and a narrow hemmer. I also have a small text book for dressmakers published in 1894, which extols the virtues of using the machines and their attachments whenever you can. I don’t use that machine but a relatively modern one (early 1950s’s) with later versions of the same attachments. I love them. Those yards and yards of ruffles come out perfectly with superb 1/8″ hems and totally even ruffling, attaching to the garment in the same step. I love them. They are my two favourite sewing machine attachments and I can’t recommend using these two in combination enough, pre-starching the material (cotton or linen) and tearing rather than cutting to make sure that I get the ruffles on the straight grain.

Another thing I like to do is finish the ruffles properly at the top. My favourite method for this is to allow extra fabric where they are being attached and basically encase the ruffle head in that, if possible. Otherwise cover it with either home made self bias tape or ribbon. Much neater. Knowing I have quality undergarments on underneath makes me feel more beautiful even though only I know about them.

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By: Joie https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-179192 Wed, 18 Mar 2015 23:07:39 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-179192 My difficulty with ruffles is that the thread breaks when gathering. I’ve taken to doing it by hand with gutterman strong thread, but as I do more, that will take forever.

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By: Elise https://historicalsewing.com/stop-wrestling-ruffles/comment-page-1#comment-133384 Fri, 07 Nov 2014 00:24:00 +0000 http://historicalsewing.com/?p=2700#comment-133384 I’d like to weigh in on the zig zag stitch over dental floss technique of gathering. I recently used it (with slight modification) to gather a 5 yard flounce into a 2.25 yard skirt, and it worked like a dream!

My modification is this: set the zig zag as large as you want it (mine was wide but shortly spaced) and just run it through the machine, carefully maintaining your distance from the edge. Then, AFTER you’re done with that, thread the dental floss or strong thread through the zigzag stitches using a dull needle. I used this one from Tandy https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1192-030.aspx, but any blunted needle should work (even the plastic yarn needles from big box stores).

This way you don’t have to fight with the dental floss or worry about it wandering away.

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