Comments on: Points to Keep Your Darts on Target

By: DIY Black and Bright Midi Dress | Butterick B6655 | Styles InSeams

DIY Black and Bright Midi Dress | Butterick B6655 | Styles InSeams — Sun, 17 May 2020 19:57:40 +0000

[…] To help this dress hug my body more, I curved the darts. This post on historical sewing has a lot of great tips for darts. […]

By: The 1905 Bodice Mockup in Real Fabric – Historical Sewing

The 1905 Bodice Mockup in Real Fabric – Historical Sewing — Thu, 08 Aug 2019 19:04:51 +0000

[…] first fitting was of the lining only. A simple 2-dart bodice front, back, side back and side pieces. Surprisingly, the size 36 bust fit well for […]

By: Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction — Wed, 06 Mar 2019 22:23:48 +0000

[…] 2. Nearly all Victorian bodices have two front waist darts to shape the fabric over curves between bust and waist and hips (for those longer garments). For large bust cups or really curvy figures use three small darts in front. Use the darts where you need them. Sew them beautifully. […]

By: 1843 Dress Construction Photos | Catherine the Teacher

1843 Dress Construction Photos | Catherine the Teacher — Sun, 13 Dec 2015 13:57:40 +0000

[…] and it really helped a ton. I read this one on flatlining a bodice. Then I read this one on sewing darts. I’m pretty sure for the last month, I had these tutorials open on permanent tabs on my […]

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Fri, 31 Oct 2014 01:02:14 +0000

In reply to cc. Thanks for the suggestion! Any particulars about fitting large busts? Time periods, patterning or draping, etc.?

By: cc

cc — Fri, 31 Oct 2014 00:38:49 +0000

I really wish you would do a tutorial on larger busts. I’m top heavy but have narrow shoulders and believe me, this presents all kinds of fitting troubles in modern clothing not to mention anything historical!

By: Steve Graver

Steve Graver — Wed, 14 May 2014 00:21:10 +0000

I didn’t see this mentioned in the above directions, but after you stitch off the end of the dart point, you can then tie a square-knot with the long ends of the threads. Tie the knot close to the point, then cut off the extra thread to keep the stitching from coming undone.

Another trick I learned about sewing darts, particularly in sheer fabric, is to take your BOBBIN thread up through the plate and THREAD THE MACHINE BACKWARDS with it, using enough thread that it won’t pull through the tension plates when you sew. Now, drop your needle right onto the point of the dart right by the fold, and then start sewing towards the end of the dart that will disappear into a seam (this doesn’t work on “fisheye” darts). This eliminates any knots or loose threads showing through the fabric and won’t come undone. basically, you’ve started sewing in the middle of the thread and used the thread on either side of the middle as your top and bottom threads! It’s a little time-consuming and you have to re-thread for each dart, but worth it for sheer garments.

By: Dawn B

Dawn B — Tue, 13 May 2014 21:07:11 +0000

Instead of backstitching or tying off the threads, I usually decrease the stitch length at the beginning and end of a dart. (The trick is to remember to change the stitch length back to normal for sewing seams!)