As a beefy guy who does 1845-1875, I know the frustrations well. For coats, by far the best thing is to get a good text on traditional tailoring and a couple reprints of period cutting books. The tailors in period devoted lots of space to how to draft patterns for “disproportionate figures”. If you try to work with one of the patterns listed here, you’ll get frustrated.

Thanks for letting us know! I do have your site recommended on the pattern Resources page too. 🙂

“Shell jacket” I HAVE heard of! Sorry for not knowing the other name. And since I don’t have a lot of research on men’s military uniforms I can’t say exactly how accurate they are. The Regency one might be a bit more fitted with the armhole seam higher on the shoulder and the sleeves set a bit more into the back. The cuff is present on the Regency one too. And the collar is higher, as you mentioned. Not sure which way you are trying to go – using CW for Regency or Regency for CW.

Here is a link to a page that sells the pattern for the civil war roundabout. It’s the second one in. It’s the basic shell they wear.

Here’s a link to the regency pattern.

I know some people who do use a civil war roundabout in regency, but I’m not sure how accurate it is.

I haven’t heard of the name “roundabout” for a men’s jacket. Cuts are quite different for men from the early 1800s to the 1860s. 1840s is closer to the 1860s look but Regency is still an older style. Can you describe it differently?