Plastic bones are lightweight, will not rust, and will not set off airport scanners (you would need to skip the busk and use thread eyelets instead of metal of course). Also, if you accidentally hit one with your sewing machine needle, the needle probably won’t break, you’ll just have a thread running through your bone (I did this accidentally when putting on the binding).

The finished corset is a single-layer underbust with a high back and 14 bones (7mm width), and a 6 inch reduction from my 42 inch waist is comfortable to wear for half a day. The plastic bones definitely keep it in shape, needed only a couple hours to break in, and have not kinked or pinched– and I have done house chores, been in and out of cars, and toted toddlers while wearing it.

The bone can twist, and it can flex toward either flat side, but it can’t flex toward its edges, so the bones can dig into you on one edge if you put them into too complex a curve, just like a flat steel would. However, there are different widths of the plastic boning, so maybe one is narrow enough that it can flex more like a spiral steel. Also, these plastic bones look very thick compared to most flat steels, but are smoother-looking than spirals when under one layer of fabric.

I think that about covers all I know that might be relevant!

I am still using my first pair of bloomers and petticoat…both made in 1984! I don’t wear them all of the time of course, otherwise they wouldn’t have lasted this long. It was period to put in patches over weak or torn areas. When this happens I add matching patches in corresponding areas to make it look like it was done on purpose. 🙂

A good Victorian hourglass shaping corset will do you well from 1830s to 1900 with only needing petticoats and other silhouette supporting garments.

You’ll find a few uses for that front hook. I think primarily the hook was to keep the petticoats down away from the waistline by simply tucking their top edge under the hook then fastening the closure at the back (mainly drawstring). There could also be a loop on the inside of the skirt waistband to loop around the corset hook so the skirts wouldn’t shift on you (prone to happen – speaking from experience here).

Lastly, as K mentioned, for corset laces. I do this with mine and have for years. It gives you a nice way to tie off the corset yourself and also easy access if you need to loosen the laces during wearing. Although it does create a lump of the knot at the front, so it’s not recommended for form fitting skirts like the Natural Form Era dresses. I thought the hook was mainly for tying laces in the front but have since learned that’s not completely accurate. I do believe it’s to keep the petticoats down from the waist and in place to avoid shifting.

My Laughing Moon Victorian Underwear pattern set just arrived yesterday, and in the historical information supplement there was a period drawing of a corset with a similar hook on the front. The description said that the hook was used to secure the extra lacing, so it didn’t just hang down the wearer’s back when cinched and tied. Very clever!

I used cotton duck (coutil hadn’t been invented yet in 1526) and hemp twine for the cording. A wire hanger bent into a huge-eyed needle pulled the doubled cord through the many boning channels. Since I am VERY large busted I did use some metal bones where extra support was needed.

Now, 12 years later the color has faded into a light tan/gray and one eyelet needs re-doing, but it’s as good as ever to wear. Its steel-boned sister, now 10 years old, is holding up just as well.