Comments on: Fitting Guidelines for Flattering Victorian Costumes

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Thu, 19 Aug 2021 18:47:43 +0000

In reply to Natasha. There's a couple of things here in your questions. 1) Are you wanting the excess gathered area at the top of the sleeve to be "pouffed out" in a nice, full silhouette? Yes, then add a bit of netting or even gathered bit of stiff fabric like organdy to the top. Cut an oval and fold in half lengthwise; gather the rounded edge and tack along the armhole seam line with the fold laying into the sleeve head. You could also try flatlining the upper portion of the sleeve to hold out the full width (see this post for tips). Flatlining even without the need to "hold up gathers" will help shape and hold your sleeve. 2) Is the sleeve flopping down onto the upper arm and you don't want it there? That is a length issue in the sleeve cap that requires more fitting. This post may help get you started. Good luck!

By: Natasha

Natasha — Thu, 19 Aug 2021 15:15:19 +0000

Hi I’m fairly new to sewing but I adore Victorian coats. But, I can’t seem to get the fathers on the shoulder to stand. I’m trying to get them to stand almost upright, I don’t know if you know what I mean. That little piece of fabric that I assume gets gathered inside the shoulder, would this work kind of like modern day padding? To raise the shoulders? Am I making the shoulder length too long? Is that why the shoulders end up flopping over the arm instead of raised? Is the fabric too heavy? Please help I’d be so grateful for your advice

By: Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction — Wed, 06 Mar 2019 22:04:10 +0000

[…] obviously, fit is HUGE when it comes to sewing a bodice. Maybe that’s why it seems difficult. For the sake of simplicity […]

By: Podcast 002: The Process of Creativity

Podcast 002: The Process of Creativity — Tue, 02 Oct 2018 18:16:33 +0000

[…] and fitting […]

By: How to Set in a Sleeve

How to Set in a Sleeve — Mon, 16 Apr 2018 21:54:55 +0000

[…] you get to the sewing stage of sleeves, make sure you have fit your pattern and reduced any fullness for a better look. Is the underarm part high enough for […]

By: Jennifer Rosbrugh

Jennifer Rosbrugh — Wed, 13 Jan 2016 20:07:54 +0000

In reply to Ardis. Good luck Ardis!

By: Ardis

Ardis — Wed, 13 Jan 2016 18:43:13 +0000

Thanks for yet another fantastic article. Your writing generally inspires me and this in particular encouraged me to pin baste fit rip rinse and repeat til I got my bodice and sleeves right before touching the fashion fabric!