For woven horsehair (not today’s nylon bias woven which you can shape), use either on-grain or cross for straight hems; for curved hems I recommend cutting the horsehair to your shaped facing to keep it flat on the inside with no pleating/darts to shape it. But putting in tiny darts to shape it is just fine too.

Starting in the 1840s a twill tape (or similar) was stitched on the skirt hem, wrapping around the edge to protect the front and back hem. It wasn’t too wide, maybe 1/2″ to 1″ visible on the front side. The tape could be replaced as needed and saved the skirt fabric from wear. The tape could also be cut from wool or velveteen, strong fabrics to take the brunt of hem wear.

from Belgium

Horsehair would depend on your fashion fabric. Remember, underlinings and facings are to support the fashion fabric. My post on flatlining skirts may help you further.

I’m tackling an Early Bustle project for the end of the month, and will flatline my skirt- would a facing also help? As it’s white, it will also have a street sweeper. Is horsehair braid between the layers going too far? Your posts are fabulous and help this beginner so much! Thanks for sharing and answering so many questions.