Hi Stephen,
Most of my historical ensembles start from ready-made patterns. Then I will tweak, add-to or trim as needed for my design. I highly recommend Truly Victorian (my go-to for Victorian dresses) and Laughing Moon. Both companies offer e-patterns (PDF), so even though you are many miles away you can still purchase and use. Have fun with the rich history of your area!

I ordered 6 meters of the tartan in the standard 55/58″ width. After cutting the overskirt and bodice I had well over two full yards left (maybe close to three)… which I then cut ANOTHER bodice from as my size changed after pregnancy and the original was too hard to alter successfully. I still have a good yard left. So, for some strange reason that 6 meters has stretched out really well! 😉

Hi Finley,
I recommend looking at my post on matching stripes. Plaids work in a similar manner. However, you want to look to see if your plaid is “even” or “uneven”. Meaning, if you fold the fabric on the bias, does the stripe part of the plaid line up on each side. If not, it is an uneven plaid, which most plaid fabrics are woven this way. But check. For my tartan plaid for this ensemble, I had to turn the bodice pieces and cut them “on the cross” grain because the main white “box” of the plaid was not completely square. I needed the bodice to match in the same alignment as the wide overskirt.

Also, we have loads of extant garments where they didn’t put much attention to matching plaid lines. It seems they weren’t as concerned with matching plaids like we are. For our projects, look at matching main lines of the plaid at the side seams and/or around the waist area, just above the waistline; or at the full hip line, and let the rest of the plaid work itself out naturally around the armholes, shoulders, and other skirt seams and waistline. Good luck!

Yes, I marked the row lines evenly from the hem edge. For tacking on, this article may help.