Oct 1877 Godeys Skirts
A certain look is produced when trim, such as lace, fringe or a ruffle, is tacked to the hem of a skirt. The basic thought is to first finish the hem (by hand or machine). Then sew on the lace on top.
I did this method for many years and many costumes. But then I questioned how it would look if I sewed it to the wrong side of the hem. The first time I tried that – whoa! What a period looking dress I had!
Sewing that trim to the backside can give it a more couture and historical look. Here’s a look at what both methods produce and why you might want to turn your skirt around to sew.
Harper’s Feb 1883 skirt
Currently I’m making an 1883 bustle day dress. My inspiration comes from a February 1883 Harper’s Bazar fashion plate and using the Truly Victorian 1884 Wash Overskirt pattern.
TV362 Wash Overskirt Pattern
By studying the plate I can see that the lace appears to stick out from BEHIND the apron. I wanted that in my reproduction too. So I then realized that the trim would need to be sewn either to the back of the apron or even to the skirt foundation where the apron would hang over it (dumb idea. Don’t try it).
My lace is 2 ¾” wide cotton crochet. My apron a lightweight cotton solid. I followed the pattern and made a ½” double hem with the one inch allowance given. Make sure to press your hem good & smooth!
Hem Inside with lace tacked on
The lace was flat and in a slight curve but I ended up running it through my gathering foot. I pinned it about halfway into the hem allowance – so about ¼” of it was on the inside. It’s whipstitched on through the hem allowance. Man, I sewed it on tight!
Hem with lace tacked on back
Ta-Da! Look at that beautiful edge. The hem seems to float over the lace. It creates a little lip to cover the top of the lace. The smooth hem stitches show and that’s ok. You can also cover them up with a bit of ribbon. It’s Victorian – the more trim the merrier!
If you sew the lace directly to the top side, it’ll stick out a bit weird. It may give off a more costume-y look than you’d like. Look at the above photo again of the whipstitched lace. Imagine that was the top side. See how it lays in a strange way? That is the 9th Grade Home Ec Class way of sewing, and it’s not always the best way to do historical costuming.
1883 Red Apron in progress
Have you sewn trim the wrong sides of hems? What did you think about the results?
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
I like that! Very nice. I could see this technique use elsewhere as well, maybe to dress up a top or even a plain tank top. What a difference it makes, pinning to the back. I haven’t tried making a Victorian costume yet, but it’s on my wish list. I made a Ren Fest costume YEARS ago, and that was pretty satisfying. Thanks for the tip!
You’re right, Juli, this method could be used lots of places. It really can make a difference in the look.
Hmm. I usually add the trim with a facing on the inside. It looks different from either of the two options you describe, but is perhaps too flat looking. I have hemstitched lace onto handkerchiefs, too. I think hemstitching an overskirt would be overkill, and lack accuracy too. (Sorry, could not resist.)
I am looking forward to seeing your finished product. I bought Heathers pattern also and am using some vintage lace from my great grandmothers trunk.
I have a BEAUTIFUL aqua and buttercream bustled ball gown planned to have gold trim and a cream draped apron with lace along the edge (sounds lovely, no?) I have been struggling over how to attach all the trimmings for this gown and also my Christmas Afternoon gown I have planned. You SAVED MY PROJECTS!!! Thank you SO much! I will certainly try this (now obvious) superior way of adding lace
Do you think this technique was a great way to preserve lace too?
Preserve in what way? It would definitely take less wear being on the back side – no rubbing from brushing up against other people and things. It’s hand sewn on too which does make for easier removal.
I was thinking it since people were known to re-used fabric and re-styled clothing, instead of constantly buying new ones.
Then it would be a good way to preserve the lace or trim (handmade or machine) from daily wear & tear. I like the technique and it just seemed to me if as they were thinking ahead about their clothes.
You get a similar effect when sewing lace or whatever on the skirt somewhere above the hem if you put a tuck in the skirt and then sew the lace/whatever inside the tuck. It looks very period.