What Everyone Ought to Know About Wearing a Victorian Corset

Jen's 1st Victorian Undies
Jen’s 1st Victorian Undies: Mantua Maker chemise & Past Patterns corset

I first experienced wearing a corset eleven years ago. I thought it was the coolest thing ever as I LOVED Victorian clothes. So much wisdom has been gained over the years of making and wearing that “body armor” that I gladly pass on my experience to you to keep you on your feet and moving.

Wearing a Victorian corset is quite different from any other garment you’ve worn.  The body is formed into another silhouette with heavy fabric and metal boning – no wonder it feels different!

Although a corset can restrict movements and habits, you can adapt to the corset’s limitations and learn to move quite well.  Until you are used to it though, go easy on yourself, spend some time wearing your new corset before the next event, and remember to relax.  Just because you are donning a restrictive undergarment doesn’t mean your entire body becomes petrified and stiff.

 

Lacing & Unlacing – the most important but overlooked side of corset wearing

 

  • First, make sure the laces at the waistline come out and back in on the same side to create the tie loops. This is the best lacing method to get that waist cinched down. Ties that tie at the very top and/or bottom are not effective. Use one long lacing string about 7 to 8 yards long for maximum comfort in getting in and out of the corset.
  • To put the corset on, spread the corset halves by opening the laces wide first. Then wrap the corset around your body and fasten the busk. Tighten from the top to the waist then from the bottom up to the waist pulling the slack with the tie loops. Continue this pattern until you’re snug but not tight. WAIT several minutes (like, 5 to 30) then tighten the laces again to where you need them to be to fit your costume.
  • Do not over-tighten the first few minutes you are getting into your corset. Give your body a chance to adjust, move organs around, and accommodate the shifting blood flow.
  • To remove a corset, untie the knot/bow and pull the laces loose from waist to top and waist to bottom continuing in reverse the same manner as in tightening the corset. Loosen slowly until the blood has settled in the torso area and you can open the busk easily.
  • Do not EVER pop open the busk to remove a corset when it is on and tightly laced. Doing so will cause the blood from the head to rush into the torso which can cause severe lightheadedness, possible fainting or other unwanted health issues. ALWAYS loosen the laces in the back first, even if only a little, before removing a corset.

 

Breathing

  • Learn to breathe to the fullest in the upper portion of your lungs.   Practice deep breathing before you put on your corset so you get a feel for what a true deep breath is (using your entire lungs and diaphragm) and how you can get a large amount of air into the top part of your lungs.
  • Avoid breathing too shallow.  You don’t want to hyperventilate.  Think of your breathing when exerting yourself with walking or dancing.
  • When dancing, allow yourself to sit out every once in a while to recapture oxygen.  You may get wrapped up in some occasions and forget to breathe (unconsciously).  Resting will keep the light-headedness away.

 

Eating

  • Take small bites and chew well.
  • Start with half the plate size you normally would serve yourself and do not overeat.
  • Avoid carbonated drinks (e.g. sodas, sparkling water, champagne) or consume very little amounts.  Burping and retaining gas in a corset is not fun.

 

Walking/General Moving

  • When wearing your corset, don’t bend at the waist too much.  A corset is designed to keep you in an upright posture.  Bending forward or to the side can cause damage to the boning or busk by severely bending and perhaps breaking them.  Metal busks and bones CAN break.
  • Use your thigh muscles to bend down, reach the floor, stand up, etc.  Since your legs are not restricted, they come in very handy for movement while your torso is stationary.
  • Allow the corset to support your back.  Although it is possible to slouch somewhat while wearing a corset, do not do so.  It may put undue strain on your lower back.
  • Be very careful leaning forward while standing, especially when holding a heavy object such as a full wine bottle to serve or handing a bag to a friend.

 

Sitting

  • Perch on the front end of the chair or bench.
  • Keep a straight posture.  Rest/relax IN the corset while keeping an upright figure; let the corset hold you up.  If you must recline, do so gently and easily.
  • Avoid deep or overstuffed chairs.  Side chairs will keep your body aligned and prevent twisting the back (which CAN happen).

 

Riding in Vehicles

  • Move the seat back to a more upright position.  You might have to adjust the seat forward a bit too to get you closer to the steering wheel.
  • Climb in, shifting any skirts to the side or gently pile them on your lap.  Move the seat belt carefully over your chest.  The shoulder belt should cross in the same manner as you normally wear it.
  • Have a friend close the door, securing you in.  Leaning over to close the door can be tricky – be careful to not strain your back.
  • If you are riding in the back seat, a small pillow between the seat and your back may be more comfortable as it will put you in a more upright position.

 

Using the Facilities

  • Wear historically accurate split-crotch drawers.  Ladies knew that when a corset was snug at the waist there was no pulling down of any sort of pant-type underwear.  Open drawers allow women to respond to nature easily.
  • Proper drawers are the best choice, but note that it is extremely difficult to wear BOTH modern underwear and drawers at the same time.  It is not recommended. Nor is wearing only modern shorts, bike shorts, PJ bottoms or a thong with a corset and full period clothing.
  • Facilities Trick:  Walk front first into the stall.  DO NOT turn around.  Lift dress/skirts/petticoats and sit on the commode backwards facing the wall.

This may feel weird at first but is amazingly quick when wearing a corset and many dress layers.  Make sure you have split-crotch drawers on when attempting this.  Keep hanging corset laces pulled up and/or tucked under the corset.

Walk out of the stall backwards instead of turning around while smoothing out the front of your skirts.

 

…Remember that a corset is simply a supportive garment that’s not unlike our modern push-up bras and body shapers. I’ve learned most of these tips from personal experience. The others from stories heard at costume gatherings. (I can’t imagine a busk snapping in two so hard it left a bruise. Ouch!) So be careful out there in your Victorian hardware!

What have you learned from wearing a corset?

 

67 thoughts on “What Everyone Ought to Know About Wearing a Victorian Corset

  1. Sanna says:

    Hi,
    a question about corset fitting for a small bust:
    I made a mock-up from a gusseted antique corset pattern, but even with the gussets it seems like I’d have to make the corset practically flat in the front to fit my bust, and as soon as I lift my arms, there the gap is again.
    If I wanted to improve my bustline, would it be smarter to make a bust improver to wear inside the corset and fit the corset pattern for that, or make the corset more flat to fit my natural bust and then sew padding on the inside of my bodice or a separate bust improver to wear over the corset?

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      I’d recommend making (or wearing) bust enhancements to help fill out the gussets. This is a historically correct method too. 🙂 You may need to add padding inside the bodice as well, but first get the corset fitting nicely THEN work on the bodice.

  2. Vivian Black says:

    You made a great point about making sure the laces come out and back in on the same side since it creates maximum comfort. My best friend and I are looking for a custom fit corset that we can wear to get the frame that we have always wanted since we were little. We will keep these tips in mind as we search for a professional that can help us best.

  3. Susan says:

    I was wondering if someone could answer a corset question I have. Thanks!
    I recently got a corset. I’m pretty sure its not Victorian reproduction but it does mold a flattering shape on the hips and waist. The only problem is the bust area. When I wear it, it is VERY high, much more than a supporting bra. I’ve heard this is normal, but it also creates a wide bust line, pushing towards my arms. It looks very odd and I want to wear the corset under clothes but the look this gives is too odd and uncomfortable. It gives a bust shape very different from corsets i have seen.
    Any tips?
    thanks

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      It’s too long in the front for you then. The bust should be at the natural level or very slightly higher for a Victorian silhouette. It also may not have enough in the bust cup area to contain your flesh or is cut too wide and needs the side seams taken in at the top. All fine-tuning tweaks when making a custom corset.

      • Susan says:

        Thank you so much. Sorry this is very late. I have recently started to prepare to make my own! Keeping your tips in mind, I will make sure to have it fit properly. With a muslin of course! Its a shame because it is a very pretty corset. I bet I can find something to do with it! Thanks again.

  4. Candace kelly says:

    I wear an18th century corset and can testify that it is hard to close the car door.
    As to lacing and unlacing, I have often relied on the kindness of star angers. Married reenactor husbands are the handiest, but I have also used the clerks at Joanne Fabrics and the desk clerk at the hotel!

  5. Shawn says:

    I picked up the Truly Victorian TVE13 1913 Late Edwardian Corset pattern and it looks like the longest part hits you almost mid thigh. I corset all the time for work (I am on the autism spectrum, and believe me, these things are miracle workers at keeping me calm in hectic environments) and so I know the standard drill about how to do your thing in the bathroom, but wow — what do you do in these? I’m afraid of terrorizing the ladies room if an emergency comes up! Have you worn these? What did you do?

  6. Lady scarlett says:

    I have been corseting for more than 30 yr and doing costuming as a living longer than that and the “fainting thing ” in a corset I have never found to be a problem I raised 10 kids and at period events had one of my teens tell me I I was too old to catch them and off they went and I went after them skirts at my knees at a dead run and jumped a split rail fence and cought them on the other side and marched them back to camp by their ear. So corsets that fit properly are no hindrance now after grounding them to camp and setting the to splitting wood I went to the next camp over and collapsed on my friends bed till I could get my breathing back in order. Never show them weakness the children will eat you. But years later they were still talking about my jump they just didn’t know it was me. ;). Enjoy your costumes and events and spryal steel is a active moms friend , I don’t use busks in my personal corsets as I like to be able to move and I drive a 1 ton 5 speed truck in my Victorian dresses so I have to be able to move I can still be tight laced and supported I just don’t have ridged bones front and back , oh I also have a spinal injuries from an accident so I work around that too. Love your posts, Retired costumer

  7. Debra Campbell says:

    Split crotch drawers…Nasty Go into the handicapped stall (if not one is waiting for it). Lots of room to move around, bars to hold on too, Tape that string up under the corset with wide surgical tape or something, or make a pocket on the corset to tuck and Velcro it in…

    • Susan says:

      There are some of us who cannot wear split-crotch for sanitary reasons. To be blunt (for the sake of helping others), I have had two episiotomies and am over 50, & I am sure I am not alone in NEEDING some sort of leakage protection. Your idea of the handicapped stall is excellent for those of us who, if we absolutely can’t manage with a corset on, might actually have to take someone in to help us.

  8. Holly Champion says:

    I have worn both a RTW style-boned underbust corset and a plastic-boned homemade overbust. The plastic boning wore out far too fast, and I will not use that type again if I can help it. But the metal boning was incredibly stiff, even after many wearings. I just can’t quite get comfortable in it. I think that after developing my core muscles and flexibility through dancing ballet, I became less interested in the supportive qualities of a corset and more interested in the natural support of good musculature, and having free range of motion. It didn’t quite cure me of my corset love though! You just can’t get a good historical silhouette without them for anything worn by western women from 1450-1915. One day I will make another corset to fit me with steel boning.
    But for those touting the benefits of corset-wearing as a means of compensating for weak core muscles, I say go and do yoga or ballet instead. Unless you gave a serious back problem– then I can see the sense in it.

  9. Bhire says:

    A comment about driving, don’t drive long distances (over half an hour OR at all if you feel it slows your reaction times/limits your mobility) if you are a new corset wearer. Either have someone drive you or dress when you arrive. Better to drive in your underthings then not be able to avoid an accident. I love my corsets and would wear them every day if I could get away with it. (The grocery story people and my neighbors started looking at me funny ) but there are some days I just know are not safe for me to drive in a corset. Please be safe.

    • Lenora says:

      Heavens! I drive 80+ miles each way for work and wear my corset all day, every day. It has been a life-changing godsend for me! Before, I spent most of that trip shifting in my seat, even tucking one leg under (automatic so only one foot needed) just to find a position that wasn’t painful. Now I can devote my full attention to the traffic around me!

  10. Tom Sleifer says:

    About 5 years ago I went in for a professional fitting from a corsetiere. I started to have a small belly with a mild case of scoliosis – first of all putting in a corset was great lacing fairly tighter and tighter really firmly finally pulled in my stomach.
    The corset holds and supports my stomach and helps mold and shapes my body. It does some serious getting use to and the corsetiere had to help me with some training. The only problem I had with wearing a corset daily and all day is I am fairly active after of few months of getting use to being corseted she put me in a long legged firm boned high waist panty girdle Rago 6210 for all day wear, wearing a girdle is not quite as restrictive as a corset is. The difference is that a corset will pull you in and hold you in, where I found that a girdle will hold and support you. It is best from some of research I have done is start if you can in a corset, then when you are of a corset make sure that you are at least in a decent firm boned girdle, it makes all the difference in the world. I also discovered which many have no idea there is misconception that a corset or a girdle is just for fashion. There are some very serious health benefits for both, as humans we stand erect gravity has a very negative effect on our muscles and internal organs, wearing a decent firm boned corset or girdle will for sure counteract this very negative effect and hold your internal organs in their normal natural position. Keep in mind it takes some getting use to from a few weeks to sorry to say a few months. The key to become use to being in decent foundation wear is keep your stomach very relaxed just rely totally on the corset or the girdle to hold and support you. You will start to notice you feel much better with increased energy and confidence, it really amazing the positive effect being corseted or girdled does have. It also takes developing a daily routine, wake up each and every morning clean up and but on either a girdle or corset and go on with your day. Keep in mind a girdle or corset is not just for getting dressed up and going out, but should be worn even when just relaxing around the house. Try it you will be pleasantly surprised and amazed as to the positive results.

  11. Taylor says:

    Question? What should you do during that time of the month? I had re-enactments that required all my underpinnings and I was unsure how to proceed. Do were modern or both? How should you go about this?

    • Jen says:

      For ladies wearing full period garb, (at ‘that’ time of the month) have you tried, MoonCup ? It’s a small silicone cup, that can stay in situ for up to six to eight hours. You find them easily on line, I have four children and I use mine in great comfort. You get to give up on other sanitary products. My daughter ( twenty three) also uses one, she has no children and finds it more comfortable than regular tampons. Hope this help, Jen
      PS, I’m five foot nothing, so chose the smaller moon cup, dispite having children and it works just fine, (no leakes ever) goood luck ! X

      • K Winter says:

        I can’t agree enough about the Moon cup! I use the Diva cup, which is the same thing, different brand, and it is the best! Since my periods are usually quite light, I can leave it for up to 12 hrs. It takes a bit of practice to insert comfortably, but after, you forget that it’s even there.

        For everybody using corsets for back support, a few years ago I discovered a local (Toronto) corset maker who does custom orthopaedic work as well. Andrea, of Lovesick Corrective Apparel does incredible work. Though much of her work is very fetish oriented, after seeing the orthopaedic corset-braces on her website, I went to her for a custom carpal tunnel brace, and couldn’t be happier. It’s nice to have support in stylish black leather instead of ugly blue and grey foam!

  12. Becky says:

    I had an L4/L5/S1 spinal fusion a few years ago. Wondering about the pros and cons of wearing a corset with this in mind.

    • Diane Ullman says:

      I can’t advise on the fusion, but I have herniations around that area that effectively render me disabled. My corset can keep me on my feet and moving a good hour or two longer than I would be able to do otherwise.

    • carmon says:

      I had the same area fused several years back and find my corsets to heaven sent. I take lonv rides on my sport bike now that I couldn’t do before my corset. Not sure what a doctor would tell you but mine said if it helps, go for it.

  13. Diane Ullman says:

    We found a lacing method that is especially helpful if you have someone doing the lacing for you. I didn’t have a piece of lacing long enough, but I had two pieces each half as long as I needed So, instead of lacing the corset with one continuous lace, I laced it from the top down to the waist with one 4 yard piece and from the bottom up to the waist with the second 4 yard piece. At the waist I knotted the upper and lower laces together on each side. It became very easy to adjust the length of the lace to the exact length I needed without any bother at all.

    I also discovered that it’s a good idea to use contrasting color laces on the upper and lower halves. While the corset is being tightened the contrast makes it easier to adjust your strings as you go.

  14. Sara says:

    You have some great ideas and I know this is an old post, but I do have some additional tips for corset wearers.

    1. Season your corset. This means that you wear it loosely, just tight enough that it stays on, keeping the back bones parallel, (which does mean that during this time the corset will flare away from your body at the bust and hips, but remember it’s only temporary) for 2-4 hours at a time, do this for several days until the corset starts to conform to your body. It doesn’t have to be consecutive days, every other day or even once a week is fine. The general consensus is that it takes 20 hours or so to season a corset (5-10 wearings). As you season, you’ll notice that what originally felt slightly constricting starts to feel surprisingly loose, and you can tighten the corset as long as you don’t tighten past the feeling of “gentle hug”.

    2. After seasoning the corset, I recommend that you begin to lace it to the size that you plan on wearing it, the bones in the back should not be warped but should run parallel to each other. It will teach you how to move in a corset, ie. what you can/can’t do, how to breathe (some people have weak costal muscles and find thoracic breathing more difficult than others), and just get to know your garment. Wear your chemise and hoops/bustles/pantalets etc. sometimes too if you can. Move around, do some light housework, read a book, try to perform some actual day to day activities in your foundations. The more you get used to maneuvering in the underwear, the easier it is to get around in your dress and the more natural you will look and feel when you go out in public.

    These tips will make your corset wearing during long events much more comfortable. The only issue some people may have is that they will find that their corset is actually too loose in the waist at only a 2-3″ reduction – particularly if you are an apple shape and rather squishy in the midriff — surprisingly, a 5″ or even 6″ reduction in the waist only (do not try to compress your hips or chest!) will frequently make your back feel much more supported without making you feel as if you are being suffocated.

    I wear corsets quite frequently because I like having bust support without having divots worn into my shoulders, and I also have back issues and was told to wear a back brace to support my back when my spasms start to act up. Instead of the brace I was recommended I took my corset to the doctor who looked at it and said I might as well give that a try instead of spending money on what was essentially the same type of garment (metal boning, lacing, etc). That was 5 years ago and I haven’t ever had to buy a medical brace. And since I also have yearly scans done to monitor my spine, I can tell you that even though I regularly lace myself to a 5 or 6″ reduction because that’s where my comfort level lies, and there has been no damage or deformity done to any of my organs or ribs. However I am on the stout side and I do have a squishy middle

    For extra comfort in a car, a small pillow either at the small of the back, or behind the shoulders will make riding a lot more comfortable. Usually a throw pillow from off of the sofa works great for this purpose. Newer cars are more of an issue than older cars, as it seems like every model year the seats are designed more and more to encourage the slouching and poor posture that many of us already have from sitting at desk jobs.

    Hope all of this proves to be helpful. Happy sewing!

  15. Kate says:

    Question and suggestion:
    I discovered the benefits of a “pee funnel”. There are a few styles, all of which allow one to use the facilities standing up. It is strange at first, but very easy. It is popular with gals who go camping…
    A small bust query: On a newly made LM corset the lift of the bust has created a deep wrinkle of flesh under the arm above the bust. Is the bust being lifted too high, perhaps? There is a boning channel at the center of the bust. I could raise the side front, using a boning along the seam to move the bust more to the front. That might make the side pretty high under the arm. I’d be grateful for any advice!

  16. Kristina says:

    Hi, I was wondering if you could answer a question…So, I recently bought a corset to wear as a part of a pirate costume to a renaissance faire. But, I have really tiny breasts and when I tried on the corset, it made me completely flat chested. I have tried wearing different bras underneath for an extra boost and I have tried tightening/loosening the corset. But nothing seems to work. Do you have any advice or tips for me?

    Thanks a bunch!!

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      Sounds like the seams are too straight in the front with no curve to support the bust line. Also sounds like it was made purposely to push down flat so the breast flesh would pop out on top, which unfortunately is not your case. The cut is not flattering for you with no curved seams and tightening or loosening will not help much (as you’ve discovered). You need a cup shape in front. Have you tried adding padding below your bust inside the corset? Not sure it’ll help but it might push up what you do have for curves on top. Sorry I don’t have much else.

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