Victorian Dressing Gowns & Tea Gowns: A Brief Overview

1886 La France Élégante et Paris Élégant Réunis
1886 Dressing Gown

We all have our “comfy clothes” we wear around the house. For some that may be yoga pants and a t-shirt; for others, jeans and sweater or cotton dress. If friends come over for a Saturday BBQ we might put on something a bit nicer… like shoes.

But in thinking about those who lived in the “lavish” world of the late 19th century, what did they put on to “dress down?”

What did the Victorians wear at home? While they lounged on the sofa watching Outlander or playing Words with Friends? 😉 Let’s take a quick look.

1880 Jan blue dressing gown
January 1880 – dressing gown in light blue (right)

Obviously, I’m looking here at middle- to upper-class ladies who had a maid or two. Although there was a large population of lower class who would wear wrappers or a work dress at home, many of us modern costumers want to dress up pretty. So let’s dream about frills….

For the first few decades of the Victorian Era (1837-1901), at-home wear was generally a wrapper, kind of like a robe. This front button, full length garment was fitted with darts or drawstring waist, could have a fitted lining or not, and could be made for wearing over a corset… or not.

It was functional. Quick to put on. Made in patterned fabric or darker colors to hide stains. Easy to slip on over the most basic undergarments of chemise and under-petticoat. Worn only at home in the bedroom or around intimate family.

1877 Budapesti Bazár
1877 Budapesti Bazár

In the 1870s the basic wrapper was becoming outdated. Boudoir fashions were changing as the sewing machine allowed for more trim and faster completion of garments, not to mention a certain “refined elegance” seeping into all aspects of Victorian life.

Around 1876 the dressing gown became the selected habit to wear at breakfast. The idea was stolen from the French (aren’t they all?) and became very popular.

The dressing gown – an incarnation of the house dress – was the forerunner to the tea gown which appeared quite generally by 1877. The tea gown was also a loose (appearing) gown for afternoon teas at home with or without guests. A muslin (sheer cotton) and lace cap appears to always be worn with the tea gown. (take note!)

“The teagown arose from the habit of ladies having tea in the hostess’s boudoir and donning smart dressing gowns. Now that the gentlemen are admitted to the function [of five o’clock tea] ‘peignoirs have developed into elegant toilettes of satin, silk, foulard, etc.’” Pg. 283 from English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century under the 1877 section.

Essentially the foundation of the “house dress” (which is little trimmed, has outside pockets and with Watteau pleat and train of another fabric) is the same as used for the “breakfast dress”. Which means you can use one basic pattern to make both types of these robes worn at home.

The formal “dressing gown” differs with a semi-train and narrow pleating at the hem. It can have trimming en tablier in the front which is like an apron-front panel trimmed separately from neckline to hem or waist to hem.

1877 March house dresses

Descriptions for the above two gowns from March 1877, Godey’s Lady’s Book: “Fig. 4 – House dress of navy-blue silk and gray matelasse. The underskirt is of the blue silk: it is trimmed with narrow ruffles and plaiting: the polonaise is of the gray, with blue silk sleeves, and trimmed under each arm and down on the skirt of polonaise. Fig. 5 – House dress of myrtle-green silk cut in the Princess shape, trimmed with narrow plaiting. Scarf overskirt, trimmed to correspond with the dress skirt.”  

Tea gowns took off in the late 1870s from the subdued dressing gown to a more loose garment generally as an open robe with fitted blouse or plastron, belt or tablier (apron from waist to hem) and a Watteau pleat in back. They were reserved for married women and a cap always worn as an accessory. This style lasted into the 1890s.

For both dressing gowns and tea gowns, bows or lace running down the front opening reflects the 18th century influence in this era. Necklines could be cut square or en Coeur. They sometimes bordered on fancy dress (Victorian term for dressing-up costumes).

1888 Velvet dressing gown
1888 velvet dressing gown from Antique-Gown.com

By the late 1880s tea gowns could be open redingotes over draped under-dresses with loose fronts. The sides and back were pulled in with cords or fitted with princess seams. This particular style lasted through the late 1890s.

By the time we get into the early 1890s the tea gown develops into brighter colors and richer materials to evolve back to the “house dress.” The house dress now is worn with a corset whereas the tea gown can still be worn without one.

Sometimes tea gowns were simply cut as a tea-jacket and skirt and morphed into a dinner dress. Tea jackets became much more popular in the 1890s.

Sleeve styles changed over the years, too, as dress fashion changed. The 1870s dressing and tea gowns had close fitting long or elbow sleeves; the 1890s saw large, full sleeves as reflected in current fashions.

1893 Tea Gown Barrington House
1893 Tea Gown plate from Barrington House

To help you in re-creating your own dressing or tea gown, I’ve compiled a brief list of fabrics used and trim ideas taken from my research.

Fabrics for Dressing and Tea Gowns:

  • Cotton muslin – sheer lawn or voile in today’s fabrics
  • Barege – a sheer wool nearly extinct today
  • Other lightweight wools with silk trims
  • Cambric – a 100% linen or linen/cotton blend
  • Cotton batiste
  • Cotton sateen
  • Printed cottons with dark grounds and large flowers & leaves
  • Satin, velvet and brocade for fancy tea gowns in the 1880s and 1890s
  • Pale pink satin petticoat with dress of ruby plush (velvet) with Watteau pleat (1881)
  • Plush or velvet
  • Silk faille (ribbed silk) or bengaline
  • Wool cashmere

Trim Ideas:

  • Flounces either plain or embroidered
  • Lace edgings, collars and flounces, or jabot
  • Cascades of flounces (in lace especially) down the front opening
  • Bows at neck and wrist
  • Draped skirt panniers emphasizing hips
  • Swiss belts or girdles
  • Chiffon draperies
  • Embroidered collars and cuffs

For further reference:

English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century by C. Willett Cunnington

My Pinterest board on Victorian Dressing & Tea Gowns

Sewing patterns: Truly Victorian TV432 – 1882 Tea Gown (Wrapper) or Past Patterns #211 Tea Gown or Wrapper, 1894 or La Mode Bagatelle Artistic Reform Tea Gowns

Have you made a late Victorian dressing or tea gown? What event was it for? Tell us your experience!

13 thoughts on “Victorian Dressing Gowns & Tea Gowns: A Brief Overview

  1. Alex price says:

    Hello Jennifer

    I was wondering if you might be able to help me with your fantastic historical clothing knowledge. I am trying to track down any images or information on my Great Great Grandfather’s dressing-gown company called ‘Ososki’ from around the 1830’s upto the l890’s. They were apparently very popular in England. I was wondering if you had come across any images with this name on? Many thanks indeed.

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      Hi Alex,
      What a neat family history! I’ve not come across that manufacturer name in my research. If you have the city or area his workshop was located in I’d suggest digging holes in local papers there. Best of luck as you search! How exciting!

  2. Anne says:

    I have been planning the making of a tea gown for a while, and am now ready to get on with it. In several sources I have read that some women wore a corset under their tea gown, others did not. If you don’t wear a corset, do you advise wearing anything to constrain an ample bosom? I am concerned that it would not look correct to have generous sized breasts wiggling about, not to mention the way this would distort the line of the gown. Your dresses are beautiful and such am inspiration. Thank you.

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      Thank you, Anne!
      I’d recommend a good fitting bra if you won’t be wearing a corset. Even a sports bra with good lift and support will help keep the bust in place. You can see photos of my own tea gown here that I made and wore to my baby showers while pregnant. I only wore my usual modern bra with a Victorian petticoat. I have worn the gown once after my maternity time, and while it looked just fine, one could tell it wasn’t exactly a Victorian shaping around the bust area. It’s true the silhouette with a modern bra is indeed different than a proper corset. However, I’d encourage you to wear what you feel comfortable with. Best of luck with your tea gown project!

  3. Emilie Smith says:

    This is the answer I’ve been waiting for! I’ve been ridiculously conflicted as to whether wrappers were worn over corset and I know now! Thank you!

  4. Val LaBore says:

    I was planning, researching and collecting photos for making my own tea gown, and writing my blog about it. You’ve saved me the time of the research AND gave me an idea of what I want to add to my gown too. Now if it just gets made in time for Costume College.
    Val

  5. ardis says:

    Thank you, I really enjoyed this article – adding the link to your related pinterest board was a great touch, too. Now I want All The Frills 😛

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