McCalls 9322 Edwardian Waist
I loved this pattern the first time I laid eyes on it. How could you not?! It’s an original McCall’s #9322 that I picked up from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library years ago at one Costume College. Of course, it’s only a copy of the original that I’m sure the VPLL handled quite carefully to make for-sale copies.
Being that this was my first time using an original period pattern I KNEW more than one fitting mockup would be made. I mean, since when does a pattern drafted to fit a woman in circa 1905 fit a 21st C. woman?
The first fitting was of the lining only. A simple 2-dart bodice front, back, side back and side pieces. Surprisingly, the size 36 bust fit well for “right out of the box.” I made my adjustments and was ready for a second fitting.
This time it would be a full mockup – lining, outer fabric and both sleeves.
Honestly, I really wanted to just skip the second fitting. (The Lazy Dressmaker…) My instincts told me it would be ok to simply cut out my final fabric. But I know better….
A mockup is truly a must when even a little doubt exists.
Since I was going for a full-on mockup, I decided to cut into $25/yd imported Swiss batiste…. Yeah. I did.
Heck! If it worked (as my mad patterning skills were telling me) I’d have a cute white Edwardian bodice.
See…
Edwardian Real Fabric Bodice Mockup
The skirt here is out of yellow & white striped seersucker from the new Truly Victorian 1903 Trumpet Skirt pattern. The belt was furiously patterned based off of one in Jean Hunnisett’s book and cut from tan twill.
But the bodice! This mockup really DID turn out cute, and oh so wearable. :-)
1905 Bodice Mockup Front
The front has the low bosom puff of the period that merely gathers over the well-fitted lining.
1905 Bodice Mockup Side
The hem is drawn in with three rows of shirring (tight gathers). As snug as they are, I still stroked them for an even look before stitching down each row to the lining.
1905 Bodice Center Front Shirring
The back was a bit too short. (That’s why you do mockups so you’ll know where to alter!) But it doesn’t mean this mockup out of really expensive fabric is a waste. No. That’s where a period belt comes in – to hide it. 
Real Fabric Bodice Mockup back
The extra back width is taken in by shirring again at the waist and by 3/8″ tucks at the neckline.
1905 Bodice Mockup Back
The lining is closed by hook & eye tape – a period method – right at center back. The fashion fabric will overlap and cover it. I’m thinking of only a few hooks & thread bars to keep it shut.
Bodice Mockup Lining Closure
Would you believe the sleeves are unaltered from the original pattern? The puff parts at least. I copied the outer puff and under puff sections verbatim while I altered the sleeve lining pieces to fit my arm.
Patterning the 1905 Sleeve
The under puff folds over and is topstitched onto the outer puff. I really had to spend time understanding this technique and also HOW to actually achieve it.
1905 Sleeve Mockup
You can see the under puff pattern has a band that wraps around the arm as it secures the puff gathering too.
Real Fabric Bodice Mockup side view
The alterations consisted of lengthening the center back an inch and taking in the lining darts as they weren’t as tight to the body over all my Edwardian undergarment layers as they should be.
Overall I’m extremely pleased with how my expensive mockup in “real fabric” turned out. It’s cute! Well… it will be once I finish the neckline and hem then trim the whole thing out in delicate lace.
UPDATE – The final version:
Finished 1905 Lemon Chiffon Dress (next to the 1873 Blackberry Cream Dress)
Have you ever sewn a mockup in “real fabric”? Did it turn out well enough for you to wear it?
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
I often sew mockups in “real fabric”, but not expensive fabric. My feeling is that even a mock up takes time, and it should be wearable. If not by me, by someone (they can always be donated or sold. )
If I do the pattern measuring and alterations well, the mock up should fit well.
Also, there are times I can buy/find “fashion” fabric for less than the cost of muslin, and mock ups should also be in fabric with a similar hand as the final fabric, and muslin won’t always work there.
We found out VPLL no longer has that pattern, so might you think of copying it for us poor little things? /\
I also hear VPLL was closing.
The pattern IS out of print so I don’t think it’ll be a copyright issue but I’ll have to check anyway. My copy is one size – Bust 36. Although I did have to tweak it a bit and re-write the instructions.
Hi Jennifer, you heard right Janyce is closing unless she can find someone to purchase the shop from her. If you are allowed to copy the pattern I would dearly love a copy as well. And would be willing to pay for the cost to reproduce it and postage.
I love the silhouette its so lovely on you. 
~Elizabeth
Thanks Elizabeth. It’s sad to hear VPLL going away; it was a fabulous resource. I will definitely be tossing around the idea of reproducing the pattern. If it comes to fruition it would be available as a full size pattern with complete instructions.
Actually she supposedly found someone to take it on… At one point i was trying to be that person.. but she said she found someone else that was a better personality fit… soo you should be able to ask her to print up more copies of the pattern…
Big kudos to you! It looks fantastic!
Some old patterns make up just wonderfully and some are so crazy strange that I’ve basically had to redraft them. Glad this one is a goodie- and hurrah for that GORGEOUS wearable muslin. Swiss batiste for the win!
copyright is 100 years plus the life of the person. Doens’t matter if shes in business or not. Copying it is intellectual theft.
You would needt o contact her and ask for permission in writing– otherwise, you could be sued.
very, very nice! Thank you for sharing. I love this era.
Nancy Farris-Thee’