Sleeve Shifts of the 1890s

Fashion doesn’t change overnight. There’s a subtle movement when a new thought is presented. The idea is taken to the full extreme over a period of a few years. Then it seems to be discarded quickly; put on the shelf and forgotten. Another new idea is presented and we start the cycle again. This path Read More...

1873 Blackberry Cream Victorian Ensemble

It’s finished!! After over four years I finally have completed my first objective of the day bodice to this incredibly fun ensemble! As in true Victorian spirit, the initial plan was to make the day bodice first then add an evening bodice later. It is the accurate way to get more mileage out of those Read More...

Fabrics to Make Pretty Petticoats

Petticoats are those undergarments that invoke romantic notions, feelings of nostalgia, and visions of swirling colors from Oklahoma! If you’ve followed me for even a bit, you know I strongly support the wearing of petticoats. First, for historical costuming they provide much needed under-structure to support the silhouette; second, they are one of the easiest Read More...

Patterns for New Costumers

First and foremost it’s all about the silhouette of the time period you want to achieve. You build the undergarments first then all the pretty things that go on top. But as a beginner you’re starting from ground zero. You have nothing…. Except maybe a bonnet or a petticoat or your grandmother’s fur jacket. And Read More...

How Long Do Reproduction Undergarments Last?

  While fitting my latest mockup (an 1838 single dart bodice with back closing), I realized I was choosing to wear my rather old corset made in 2002. This isn’t a bad thing as I love this particular corset – it gives a great shape and is fitted relatively well. My beloved cream cotton brocade Read More...

Pintucks – the Old Fashioned Way

  Pintucks! So gloriously tiny! So delicate! So straight & even… or not. Pintucks have a charm about them. They call to us because they signify something regal or heavenly. They appear aloof and untouchable. The beauty they add to Victorian petticoats and Edwardian chemises elevate such tantalizing garments. So as dressmakers from another time, Read More...

Finishing Your Victorian Skirts with a Hidden Placket Opening

Ever make a skirt where you sew up all the side seams – easy, right? – then you have to figure out what to do with the opening? (Hopefully you left an opening in one of the side seams. 🙂 ) It’s not always as simple as folding the raw edges to the inside and Read More...