How to Grade Seam Allowances

Do you make the grade? It’s super important to get into the habit of grading your seams, and I highly recommend it! The process of grading your seam allowances (aka trimming to various widths) is fairly easy to understand. However, this sewing technique can be time consuming. But don’t let that stop you! Making the Read More...

Constructing a Victorian Bustle Dress

It’s that moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. The gorgeousness of the 1870s & 1880s called me strongly. Read More...

Petticoat Lengths and Widths

We’re talking about petticoats again!! [This should come as no surprise if you’re a regular reader here.] It’s that important to your overall historical look to do the best you can with these undergarments. From the “why” to the fabrics used to selecting the patterns – each component plays a part. That now brings us to discuss Read More...

All the Flounces! 1850s Skirt Styles

If you love making and wearing flounces (aka deep ruffles) then welcome to 1850s fashion! Stuck between the demure, sweet, simple trends of the 1840s and the billowing hoops and war-torn fashions of the early 1860s, came the frilly, airy, and fanciful 1850s styles.  This decade was all about the Skirt. (Oh, and the sleeves Read More...

Quit Overthinking Cartridge Pleats

Over the years I’ve seen many, many costumers question and ponder and debate and frustrate themselves over how to calculate cartridge pleats. I get it. It’s pleating. Pleats need to be calculated (or can be, but it’s not absolutely necessary). But cartridge pleats – or gauging as is the 19th century period term – are Read More...