Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

That moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. But so many I talked to in that early part of Read More...

How Much Yardage Do I Need??

We’ve all been there. Standing in an aisle of gorgeous fabrics… swooning at the computer screen… gazing lovingly (and with drool at the mouth) at THE.PERFECT.FABRIC for that next dress. Question is… how much to buy?? Will 5 yards be enough? 10? Or do I have to sell a kidney to afford some unmentionable amount Read More...

A Look at a 1860s (or 1870s) Original Girl’s Dress

Late in summer 2017 I had a follower (Ruthann Gray) send me a girl’s dress that is in wonderful condition aside from the few random holes in the skirt and spots on the bodice front. I shared it recently in a Facebook Live video (posted below) going over each detail in the construction. For a closer Read More...

Flatlining 19th Century Sleeves

Flatlining – or the process of mounting an underlining to a fashion fabric – is a hallmark of garment construction in the 19th century. You find it everywhere in all decades of this era – in bodices, skirts, collars, reticules… and also sleeves. Essentially, flatlining in these antique pieces is what we’d call putting in a Read More...

Corset Covers, Chemisettes and Under-Bodices, Oh My!

Recently, one of my Bustle Day Dress Class students asked me what the difference was between chemisettes and corset covers. Both being items worn under the dress proper (and considering they both start with C), I can see how their purpose and function could be mixed up. Let’s clear up the confusion with a few definitions Read More...

Flatlining 19th Century Skirts

  The importance of flatlining skirts cannot be understated. Although, there is a time and place for using underlinings or a lining or both. Or even leaving off linings altogether and simply relying on hem facings and petticoats to keep the silhouette in place. To follow up my post on how to flatline bodices, let’s Read More...

A Piping Tutorial – The Basics for 19th Century Costumes

  OMG – piping! Some costumers cringe even just thinking about piping, others squeal with delight. Or some are simply: “What’s the big deal about piping?” What’s the big deal?!? Well… everything! Piping is THE historical definition of design lines AND the support of seams that receive so much wear & tear. (Remember, our ancestors Read More...