Sleeve Shifts of the 1890s

Fashion doesn’t change overnight. There’s a subtle movement when a new thought is presented. The idea is taken to the full extreme over a period of a few years. Then it seems to be discarded quickly; put on the shelf and forgotten. Another new idea is presented and we start the cycle again. This path Read More...

1895 Nine-Gored Skirt from The Delineator No.7856

Straight from the pages of the September 1895 issue of The Delineator…. Pattern number 7856 a nine-gored skirt with matching bias seam edges. Oh, to be able to purchase this original pattern of the Late Victorian era! Here is the complete description of the pattern along with yardage requirements given in the magazine. I’ll also Read More...

Flatlining 19th Century Skirts

  The importance of flatlining skirts cannot be understated. Although, there is a time and place for using underlinings or a lining or both. Or even leaving off linings altogether and simply relying on hem facings and petticoats to keep the silhouette in place. To follow up my post on how to flatline bodices, let’s Read More...

The Autumn Dress Fabrics, The Delineator, October 1902

  THE AUTUMN DRESS FABRICS WITH ILLUSTRATIONS IN ACTUAL SIZE, OF NEW DESIGNS IN FANCY VELVETS, AND VELVET CORD This 2-page article was featured on pages 546 & 547 of the October 1902, The Delineator magazine. Just think! Our great grandmothers were pouring over these fabric & color hints to get the latest news of Read More...

A Piping Tutorial – The Basics for 19th Century Costumes

  OMG – piping! Some costumers cringe even just thinking about piping, others squeal with delight. Or some are simply: “What’s the big deal about piping?” What’s the big deal?!? Well… everything! Piping is THE historical definition of design lines AND the support of seams that receive so much wear & tear. (Remember, our ancestors Read More...

Finishing Your Victorian Skirts with a Hidden Placket Opening

Ever make a skirt where you sew up all the side seams – easy, right? – then you have to figure out what to do with the opening? (Hopefully you left an opening in one of the side seams. 🙂 ) It’s not always as simple as folding the raw edges to the inside and Read More...

Book Review: Victorian Secrets

Usually if there’s any sort of buzz about a new blog post, book, class, etc. regarding corsets and the wearing of, the historical costume community is apt to proceed forth either carefully with trepidation or with full zeal. Which one of these viewpoints the reader comes from is based on one’s current view of corsets Read More...

The Big Scary World of a New Time Period

You keep coming back to it. Over and over. It draws you in with its delicious appearance as a moth to a gaslight flame at a Victorian ball. It calls to you; speaks your name. Torments your dreams…. Ruthless in its pursuit of your desire to make it come to life. That long ago fashion Read More...