Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

That moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. But so many I talked to in that early part of Read More...

How Much Yardage Do I Need??

We’ve all been there. Standing in an aisle of gorgeous fabrics… swooning at the computer screen… gazing lovingly (and with drool at the mouth) at THE.PERFECT.FABRIC for that next dress. Question is… how much to buy?? Will 5 yards be enough? 10? Or do I have to sell a kidney to afford some unmentionable amount Read More...

1890s Plastrons – Is that a Victorian Bib?

“Plastron” – say what?? It sounds so formal. Or rather gladiator. I mean, it’s traditionally the chest and sleeve pad worn by fencers. So how do they connect into Victorian fashion? (Hint: they aren’t chemisettes but are related in being Victorian accessories.) As with all things Late Victorian with feminine frou-frou and gorgeousness, you’ll come Read More...

Flatlining 19th Century Sleeves

Flatlining – or the process of mounting an underlining to a fashion fabric – is a hallmark of garment construction in the 19th century. You find it everywhere in all decades of this era – in bodices, skirts, collars, reticules… and also sleeves. Essentially, flatlining in these antique pieces is what we’d call putting in a Read More...

Corset Covers, Chemisettes and Under-Bodices, Oh My!

Recently, one of my Bustle Day Dress Class students asked me what the difference was between chemisettes and corset covers. Both being items worn under the dress proper (and considering they both start with C), I can see how their purpose and function could be mixed up. Let’s clear up the confusion with a few definitions Read More...

Victorian Dressing Gowns & Tea Gowns: A Brief Overview

We all have our “comfy clothes” we wear around the house. For some that may be yoga pants and a t-shirt; for others, jeans and sweater or cotton dress. If friends come over for a Saturday BBQ we might put on something a bit nicer… like shoes. But in thinking about those who lived in Read More...