Linings & Underlinings – Do You Really Need Both?

I frequently get questions from our many readers about patterns that call for both an underlining/interlining fabric as well as a full lining fabric for a bodice and even skirts. They range from “So that makes three layers, right?” to “How in the world do I add all those layers of fabric?” and “Won’t all Read More...

Bustle Era Changes – The Highs & Lows in the 1870s & 1880s

Ahh.. the Victorian Bustle Era. It’s so pretty! And aside from the huge poufy sleeves of the 1890s, it’s what most people think of when they hear “Victorian.” It’s the trimming. The opulence. The expensive laces. The multitude of fabrics – all on the same gown. But did you know there are three distinct varieties Read More...

Demystifying Victorian Bodice Construction

That moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. But so many I talked to in that early part of Read More...

Podcast 009: Cottons for Bustle Dresses

Is cotton historically appropriate to use for Victorian bustle dresses? Enthusiastically -YES! Day and evening wear from the 1870s and 1880s abounds in various cotton weaves used in the late 19th century. In this episode Jennifer talks about her favorite fabric, cotton, with its wonderful properties of being easy-to-sew, breatheable, washable and with strength and Read More...

Constructing a Victorian Bustle Dress

It’s that moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before I got into historical costuming I wasn’t afraid. The gorgeousness of the 1870s & 1880s called me strongly. Read More...

1880 Vanilla Dressing Gown – Constructing the Gown

The full length princess gowns of the late 1870s and early 1880s scare me. They do. I guess it comes from trying to achieve a good fit with such long seams over such figure curves as mine. So when I got the need to reproduce the c.1885 dressing gown from the Met Museum I had Read More...

1880 Vanilla Dressing Gown – Creating the Lace Panels

Over the years I’ve pondered making a Bustle Era tea gown – aka dressing gown. It’s also been requested I create an online class for those who want to make one too. (That’ll be coming later.) Well, I had the marvelous opportunity present itself a few months ago when, after over 14 years of anticipation and Read More...