Upon Dressmaking circa 1851

Contemporary periodicals written in the past are such wonderful original sources we can pull from when researching costumes! Written by those who actually made and wore the clothing we so romanticize and re-create, these articles inspire and give us a glimpse into their world. I want to share with you a particular article about dressmaking Read More...

Bringing a Fashion Plate to Life

Using original existing garments as inspiration for replication is wonderful. But there’s just something about a historical fashion plate that pushes you to bring it to life. True, a drawing from a century or two ago was the epitome of fashion that was presented to ladies of the time. But as our glossy Vogues and Read More...

5 Tips to Keep Your Cartridge Pleats from Looking Like Gathers

I hate cartridge pleats! Box pleats, fine! Knife pleats, piece of cake, but gauging? Looks like I gathered it & slapped it on. What am I doing wrong? ~ Sylvia Shope Byers Sylvia’s frustration was pouring through her Facebook message. “I’m trying to make them small and lovely, but I might be making them too Read More...

Who Else Has Trouble Figuring Flounces on 1850s Skirts?

I love ruffles! Lots of them. I love flounces too which are essentially long ruffles. I also love skirts with a few deep flounces attached. (I’m such a nerdy girly-girl.) Perhaps you love flounces to. So when your design calls for three flounces on your wide c.1855 skirt, where do you begin? I mean, it can’t Read More...

18 Simple Steps for a Dog Leg Closure on Your Mid-Victorian Dress

Perhaps you’re putting together a new summer dress. Or maybe it’s a new work dress for camp. All you know is that one piece dresses in the 1850s and 1860s had the bodice and skirt attached together. Then there is something about that closure that looks funny and seems daunting…. I mean, you could easily Read More...

19th C. Pocket Solutions Because You Have to Put Your iPhone Somewhere

  Hidden pockets. Wide pockets. Tiny pockets. Welt pockets. Watch pockets. Patch pockets. Pockets with flaps. Pockets in seams. Decorative pockets and functional pockets. Inside pockets. Breast pockets. Back pockets. It truly is amazing the variety and locations of pockets in 19th Century clothing! For easy reference, let’s look at where our ancestors carried personal Read More...

3 Tips to Prevent the Lampshade Hoopskirt

Successful historical costuming begins with the silhouette (among other things). When the dress is “just not right,” take a look at how it appears. Sometimes the proportions are off. Sometimes the undergarments hang funny. Other times it’s simply the support shape the entire costume is built on. Reproduction hoop skirts from the Mid-Victorian era, the Read More...

Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers

If you’re at all like most historical costumers, you tend to focus on the main part of a new costume – the dress. I know I do. Sure, you give a thought to the corset; maybe even make a new one which we know is the substance for a well-presented silhouette. Then you follow with Read More...